sportyXL06

Hello again it has been some time since my last post anyways here it goes
I have an 06 sporty xl 1200 c last year I hit A very large pot hole while riding home from work in the rain at night of course . It was the smoothe laced wheel damaged badly it was amazing I did'nt hit the road someone loves me up there. So I orderd the new rim part #44610-05 and wheel bearing kit 43833-07 I went to the dealer when they called to to tell me I had to open up an RO so they can install the the parts and the tire so while I was watching them I noticed the mechanic was on the machine shortening the length of the spacer between the bearings of course I questioned him on this he said that it is too long so I asked him what about the other 2 different spacers in the kit this is suppose to fit this rim his reply was I do this all the time well so not to drag this on when I got the rim back the spacer was loose he said that it was ok I have a bad feeling that this is not right can some body give give me some advice on this

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Hoople

When you say "spacer" between the two bearings are you referring to the sleeve between the bearings that is hidden from sight by the wheel hub.

sportyXL06

this is the one that is between the 2 bearings in the center of the hub YES it is

Hoople

That sleeve Must be tight or else the bearings will be side loaded. Continuous side loading would almost guarantee short lived bearing life.

I can come up with a reason why he would want to shorten it, but the sleeve must still be tight between the two inner bearing races when all is said and done.

Just wondering... how do you know that the spacer is actually loose.

sportyXL06

when you stick your finger into the hub you can move the spacer up and down and it is loose so U can imagine what it will do to the main shaft and the bearings while U are riding the bike and on the old wheel it is tight

Hoople

Think about what actually is taking place. I don't know what your spec is, but my front axle nut needs to be torqued to 60 ft/lbs. If that sleeve was so short that it was still loose, it would be essentially missing. The inner bearing races would now be squeezed together until 60/ft lbs was reached. All that force would be applied directly to the ball bearings, not to the inner races. That would result be a crazy amount of side loading. I would think with that much force on the side of the bearings you could jack the bike up, spin the wheel and hear it.

Not that it matters but how did the mechanic shorten the sleeve. Just wondering.

Chopper

The wheel install kit comes with the right spacer for the bike, have never had to trim one down, the spacer is what determines the depth of the secound bearing you press in. When you have the wheel off you can hear that spacer rattle around inside the hub, if that's what your talking about. That's a norm. Also if the spacer's were not right in the kit, he could have used the old one out of your bad wheel. I would just document everything in case there's a problem down the road, and hope that the dealer has trained tech's that know what their doing, we can't secound guess everything. How's the bike handle with the new wheel?

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Hoople

Chopper bear with me. I am learning here also. Are you saying the wheel hub only has 1 bearing shoulder on 1 side of the wheel hub. If that's the case what keeps the wheel hub from sliding on the 2 outer bearings races.

Chopper

I want to say press fit, but I am always learning also, a picture is worth ten or twenty words, here's the bearing install from kent-moore, let me know if this makes sence. Always install first bearing on primary brake disc side (left
side). If front wheel has two brake discs, install bearing on left side first. There is a shoulder on the primary brabe side of the hub that the first bearing seats into it sets up wheel spacing when you press the first bearing in.

HD-44060-C.pdf

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Hoople

I had no idea it took that much force (it says heating may be necessary) to install those bearings. Harley sure does not that outer race to ever turn.
So you have to press that 2nd bearing in until you hit the spacer. Thanks.. I understand exactly what you mean now. Good read.

The special tools you really need to work on these tractors is extensive. I don't have a chest of tools like you have, but it's close. And even with all the special tools I do have, I had to buy another special wrench just to take the oil filter off. Now I have 11 oil filter removal tools!