Harley Davidson Forums

RibEye · Oct 1st, 2012, 04:41 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bcortani View Post

Very big help. I am more than likely going to change to a Gates brand submersible fuel line hose (5/16 id) and not even bother trying to find the HD replacement line. Today is Sunday so no luck at any of my local parts places as they are closed. May require a 70 mile trip to Port Angeles to NAPA.

right now my hang up is my noobness. I have the console off and the fuel pump plate cover unscrewed, but getting the assembly out is proving to be a bit daunting. All the components are plastic and if I bung it up, seems to be costly to fix...I am reading the HD shop bible, and it is kind of vague on how to manipulate the assembly out. Any advice would be appreciated.

One question, My tank level is well below half tank, how important is it to drain the tank (no open heat sources or flame) before I gently remove the assembly and replace lines??

I strongly recommend a fuel rail pressure test before repair work or part purchases. You could wind up doing significant, and costly tail chasing. There are many possible causes for your symptoms.

You do not need to remove the tank to replace its guts. There is a trick to getting those guts to come out, which is likely spoken about in the self-help area. Once you have done it, it is no problem, but it is kind of tricky teh first time.

Be careful about using non-OEM fuel line. It must be submersable, and it should not have an outer surface that could rub the tank lining off where it contacts it. Do not try to re-use the fuel line clamps. Watch the routing of tank internals, to make sure they do not interfere with your fuel level sensor motion. You need brand new sealing screws for the console, as well as a new seal, then make sure you follow the torquing sequence for the console screws. it will help to put the new seal in the sun to soften it up, before installing it, also, it is best not to install the console and seal in the cold. The seal is kind of hard rubber.

There is more. These are just the biggies that occur tome at the moment...

Good luck,
Rich P

Jack Klarich · Oct 1st, 2012, 05:56 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by RibEye View Post

I strongly recommend a fuel rail pressure test before repair work or part purchases. You could wind up doing significant, and costly tail chasing. There are many possible causes for your symptoms.

You do not need to remove the tank to replace its guts. There is a trick to getting those guts to come out, which is likely spoken about in the self-help area. Once you have done it, it is no problem, but it is kind of tricky teh first time.

Be careful about using non-OEM fuel line. It must be submersable, and it should not have an outer surface that could rub the tank lining off where it contacts it. Do not try to re-use the fuel line clamps. Watch the routing of tank internals, to make sure they do not interfere with your fuel level sensor motion. You need brand new sealing screws for the console, as well as a new seal, then make sure you follow the torquing sequence for the console screws. it will help to put the new seal in the sun to soften it up, before installing it, also, it is best not to install the console and seal in the cold. The seal is kind of hard rubber.

There is more. These are just the biggies that occur tome at the moment...

Good luck,
Rich P

Harley Davidson Community (Fuel Pump Removal) Have a look here

bcortani · Oct 13th, 2012, 06:18 PM

OK, the adventure continues. I called Chicago Harley as I was told they are best on parts. they do not just sell the in-tank fuel line. I can get it with the fuel pump kit for 250 bucks. the self help article was for a 2006 softail which can have a fuel filter kit with the lines. The 2007 article that jack linked was the closest but there are still some differences...the 2008 does not have a fuel filter kit with line, just the filter and o ring which I purchased (and our sons boxer chewed...grrr). Erik at Chicago Harley 2was very helpful, but not able to answer questions like would the hose from the 2006 kit fit my needs...he was very insistant that he go by the parts book only. I am going to just order the gates submersible hose at this point as I have already removed the stock line and can not re use it. Also, my year bike apparently did not have any hose clamps used on the fittings as they were just held on by the tight pressure from the corrogated plastic valve pieces. Any one have any spare gates submersible 5/16 id line hanging around?? lol

bcortani · Oct 13th, 2012, 07:06 PM

OK, found a decent buy on the Gates sub hose on ebay:

Genuine Gates 5/16" Submersible Fuel Hose for Fuel Injected Harley Davidsons

BUBBIE · Oct 13th, 2012, 09:46 PM

That is a sweet deal for Buy It Now...

Man, say HD and pay thru the nose...

signed....BUBBIE

bcortani · Oct 14th, 2012, 09:14 PM

quick bonehead question, what type hose clamps would be appropriate for in the fuel use with my project? I see the stainless steel clamps mostly use zinc plated screws, so go with those or will the corbin self tightening type be fine enough?? I am now actually gonna be time pressed pretty soon to finish this project, we just entered contract on a new home (to us) and if all goes well we will be moving in about 40 days...lol, right in the middle of storm season here...weee

Jack Klarich · Oct 15th, 2012, 11:12 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by bcortani View Post

quick bonehead question, what type hose clamps would be appropriate for in the fuel use with my project? I see the stainless steel clamps mostly use zinc plated screws, so go with those or will the corbin self tightening type be fine enough?? I am now actually gonna be time pressed pretty soon to finish this project, we just entered contract on a new home (to us) and if all goes well we will be moving in about 40 days...lol, right in the middle of storm season here...weee

The worm gear type can cut into the hose so be careful, the OEM type clamps are best iMO

BUBBIE · Oct 15th, 2012, 11:21 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Jack Klarich View Post

The worm gear type can cut into the hose so be careful, the OEM type clamps are best iMO

I know that the plastic fittings can take a lot of Fully around pressure BUT the screw clamps Don't always compress completely around what you are tightening. That Flat screw side CAN crack/crush plastic fittings...Let alone Cut...

I would go with the Better Full circle types.

signed....BUBBIE

bcortani · Oct 21st, 2012, 04:33 AM

I am finished for now!! I did make a boo boo but we will see this spring if it matters or not. I got my 2' of submersible hose. I cut it in half. "then I took the piece I was going to use for the pump to filter connection and measured it to the original fuel line. I then trimmed it back about 1 inch. installed...almost...sadly, that 1 inch was a bit much, was putting too much torque on the hose and fitting so decided not to force it, ate the 12.50 that chunck cost me and used the other half. fitment was nice and relaxed but not sloppy. Since I made the other chunk un useable for now, I decided to put everything back togther. I cheated, I re-used the screws and gasket seal, both seemed in like new shape, we'll see this spring...folowed the tension guide per the bible, hooked up the power, re set teh fuse for teh pump, starter...no start...oh yeah, always forget the darn quick disconnect...fired right up. I did notice a noticeably different tone to the fuel pump prime at startup, sounded zippy. It was pouring and blowing outside so could not get a test ride in, still pouring and blowing. Will probably not get to officially test my work until we move this next month...hopefully I can get time and a driver to follow me sooner (75 mile move) as I want to get the bike moved before the big move so as to not have to waste a truck bed space in December. thanks for all the GREAT help and tips you guys gave me. Love this site.

BUBBIE · Oct 21st, 2012, 12:19 PM

Hey, Zippy-bcortani

If you moved another 1900 miles to Az. You could ride year around... Lots of Need for your type of work here in Cochise county Az. My S. friends work/ride here.

I really feel for you as I Lived In King County (dry compared to your local) for many seasonal damp years and like the drying out that has taken off the Moss that built up from Living full time there.

You really live OUT just so the members Know, Way Out... Getting Most of the rain off the ocean up against the Mountain range between You and Civilization.

Beautiful area and I imagine still Good Fishing on the Still pristine rivers there.

*********

Sounds lik you did the Job right...

signed....BUBBIE

Oct 1st, 2012, 04:41 PM	#11
RibEye Contributor$ Ride: 2003 Road King Classic (100th Anniversary FLHRCI-X) Join Date: Sep 20th, 2009 Location: Tucson AZ Posts: 799 My Mood:	Re: Runs rough when hot Quote: Originally Posted by bcortani View Post Very big help. I am more than likely going to change to a Gates brand submersible fuel line hose (5/16 id) and not even bother trying to find the HD replacement line. Today is Sunday so no luck at any of my local parts places as they are closed. May require a 70 mile trip to Port Angeles to NAPA. right now my hang up is my noobness. I have the console off and the fuel pump plate cover unscrewed, but getting the assembly out is proving to be a bit daunting. All the components are plastic and if I bung it up, seems to be costly to fix...I am reading the HD shop bible, and it is kind of vague on how to manipulate the assembly out. Any advice would be appreciated. One question, My tank level is well below half tank, how important is it to drain the tank (no open heat sources or flame) before I gently remove the assembly and replace lines?? I strongly recommend a fuel rail pressure test before repair work or part purchases. You could wind up doing significant, and costly tail chasing. There are many possible causes for your symptoms. You do not need to remove the tank to replace its guts. There is a trick to getting those guts to come out, which is likely spoken about in the self-help area. Once you have done it, it is no problem, but it is kind of tricky teh first time. Be careful about using non-OEM fuel line. It must be submersable, and it should not have an outer surface that could rub the tank lining off where it contacts it. Do not try to re-use the fuel line clamps. Watch the routing of tank internals, to make sure they do not interfere with your fuel level sensor motion. You need brand new sealing screws for the console, as well as a new seal, then make sure you follow the torquing sequence for the console screws. it will help to put the new seal in the sun to soften it up, before installing it, also, it is best not to install the console and seal in the cold. The seal is kind of hard rubber. There is more. These are just the biggies that occur tome at the moment... Good luck, Rich P

Oct 1st, 2012, 05:56 PM	#12
Jack Klarich Contributor$ Ride: 2007 Streetbob Join Date: Sep 25th, 2009 Location: Jacksonville, Florida Posts: 13,622 My Mood:	Re: Runs rough when hot Quote: Originally Posted by RibEye View Post I strongly recommend a fuel rail pressure test before repair work or part purchases. You could wind up doing significant, and costly tail chasing. There are many possible causes for your symptoms. You do not need to remove the tank to replace its guts. There is a trick to getting those guts to come out, which is likely spoken about in the self-help area. Once you have done it, it is no problem, but it is kind of tricky teh first time. Be careful about using non-OEM fuel line. It must be submersable, and it should not have an outer surface that could rub the tank lining off where it contacts it. Do not try to re-use the fuel line clamps. Watch the routing of tank internals, to make sure they do not interfere with your fuel level sensor motion. You need brand new sealing screws for the console, as well as a new seal, then make sure you follow the torquing sequence for the console screws. it will help to put the new seal in the sun to soften it up, before installing it, also, it is best not to install the console and seal in the cold. The seal is kind of hard rubber. There is more. These are just the biggies that occur tome at the moment... Good luck, Rich P Harley Davidson Community (Fuel Pump Removal) Have a look here __________________ CAPITAL JACK( Nuff Said, We're Burnin Daylight, Let's Ride)

Oct 13th, 2012, 06:18 PM	#13
bcortani Community Star Ride: 2008 Softail Heritage Classic Join Date: Oct 12th, 2010 Location: Port Angels WA Posts: 367 My Mood:	Re: Runs rough when hot OK, the adventure continues. I called Chicago Harley as I was told they are best on parts. they do not just sell the in-tank fuel line. I can get it with the fuel pump kit for 250 bucks. the self help article was for a 2006 softail which can have a fuel filter kit with the lines. The 2007 article that jack linked was the closest but there are still some differences...the 2008 does not have a fuel filter kit with line, just the filter and o ring which I purchased (and our sons boxer chewed...grrr). Erik at Chicago Harley 2was very helpful, but not able to answer questions like would the hose from the 2006 kit fit my needs...he was very insistant that he go by the parts book only. I am going to just order the gates submersible hose at this point as I have already removed the stock line and can not re use it. Also, my year bike apparently did not have any hose clamps used on the fittings as they were just held on by the tight pressure from the corrogated plastic valve pieces. Any one have any spare gates submersible 5/16 id line hanging around?? lol __________________ Winning is a mindset, so is losing. The fight isn't over until I say its over. 2008 Softail Classic; Dobecks Gen3; MaxFlow A/C; Rush 3 1/2" Slash Downs with 2" Baffle

Oct 13th, 2012, 07:06 PM	#14
bcortani Community Star Ride: 2008 Softail Heritage Classic Join Date: Oct 12th, 2010 Location: Port Angels WA Posts: 367 My Mood:	Re: Runs rough when hot OK, found a decent buy on the Gates sub hose on ebay:Genuine Gates 5/16" Submersible Fuel Hose for Fuel Injected Harley Davidsons Genuine Gates 5/16" Submersible Fuel Hose for Fuel Injected Harley Davidsons __________________ Winning is a mindset, so is losing. The fight isn't over until I say its over. 2008 Softail Classic; Dobecks Gen3; MaxFlow A/C; Rush 3 1/2" Slash Downs with 2" Baffle

Oct 13th, 2012, 09:46 PM	#15
BUBBIE Contributor$ Ride: FLHR 09 Join Date: Oct 15th, 2008 Location: AZ, S.East corner/Western WA. Posts: 3,988 My Mood:	Re: Runs rough when hot That is a sweet deal for Buy It Now... Man, say HD and pay thru the nose... signed....BUBBIE __________________ ************************* Quite Often I am Right so Forgive me when I'm WRONG!!!.......

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Oct 14th, 2012, 09:14 PM	#16
bcortani Community Star Ride: 2008 Softail Heritage Classic Join Date: Oct 12th, 2010 Location: Port Angels WA Posts: 367 My Mood:	Re: Runs rough when hot quick bonehead question, what type hose clamps would be appropriate for in the fuel use with my project? I see the stainless steel clamps mostly use zinc plated screws, so go with those or will the corbin self tightening type be fine enough?? I am now actually gonna be time pressed pretty soon to finish this project, we just entered contract on a new home (to us) and if all goes well we will be moving in about 40 days...lol, right in the middle of storm season here...weee __________________ Winning is a mindset, so is losing. The fight isn't over until I say its over. 2008 Softail Classic; Dobecks Gen3; MaxFlow A/C; Rush 3 1/2" Slash Downs with 2" Baffle

Oct 15th, 2012, 11:12 AM	#17
Jack Klarich Contributor$ Ride: 2007 Streetbob Join Date: Sep 25th, 2009 Location: Jacksonville, Florida Posts: 13,622 My Mood:	Re: Runs rough when hot Quote: Originally Posted by bcortani View Post quick bonehead question, what type hose clamps would be appropriate for in the fuel use with my project? I see the stainless steel clamps mostly use zinc plated screws, so go with those or will the corbin self tightening type be fine enough?? I am now actually gonna be time pressed pretty soon to finish this project, we just entered contract on a new home (to us) and if all goes well we will be moving in about 40 days...lol, right in the middle of storm season here...weee The worm gear type can cut into the hose so be careful, the OEM type clamps are best iMO __________________ CAPITAL JACK( Nuff Said, We're Burnin Daylight, Let's Ride)

Oct 15th, 2012, 11:21 AM	#18
BUBBIE Contributor$ Ride: FLHR 09 Join Date: Oct 15th, 2008 Location: AZ, S.East corner/Western WA. Posts: 3,988 My Mood:	Re: Runs rough when hot Quote: Originally Posted by Jack Klarich View Post The worm gear type can cut into the hose so be careful, the OEM type clamps are best iMO I know that the plastic fittings can take a lot of Fully around pressure BUT the screw clamps Don't always compress completely around what you are tightening. That Flat screw side CAN crack/crush plastic fittings...Let alone Cut... I would go with the Better Full circle types. signed....BUBBIE __________________ ************************* Quite Often I am Right so Forgive me when I'm WRONG!!!.......

Oct 21st, 2012, 04:33 AM	#19
bcortani Community Star Ride: 2008 Softail Heritage Classic Join Date: Oct 12th, 2010 Location: Port Angels WA Posts: 367 My Mood:	Re: Runs rough when hot I am finished for now!! I did make a boo boo but we will see this spring if it matters or not. I got my 2' of submersible hose. I cut it in half. "then I took the piece I was going to use for the pump to filter connection and measured it to the original fuel line. I then trimmed it back about 1 inch. installed...almost...sadly, that 1 inch was a bit much, was putting too much torque on the hose and fitting so decided not to force it, ate the 12.50 that chunck cost me and used the other half. fitment was nice and relaxed but not sloppy. Since I made the other chunk un useable for now, I decided to put everything back togther. I cheated, I re-used the screws and gasket seal, both seemed in like new shape, we'll see this spring...folowed the tension guide per the bible, hooked up the power, re set teh fuse for teh pump, starter...no start...oh yeah, always forget the darn quick disconnect...fired right up. I did notice a noticeably different tone to the fuel pump prime at startup, sounded zippy. It was pouring and blowing outside so could not get a test ride in, still pouring and blowing. Will probably not get to officially test my work until we move this next month...hopefully I can get time and a driver to follow me sooner (75 mile move) as I want to get the bike moved before the big move so as to not have to waste a truck bed space in December. thanks for all the GREAT help and tips you guys gave me. Love this site. __________________ Winning is a mindset, so is losing. The fight isn't over until I say its over. 2008 Softail Classic; Dobecks Gen3; MaxFlow A/C; Rush 3 1/2" Slash Downs with 2" Baffle

Oct 21st, 2012, 12:19 PM	#20
BUBBIE Contributor$ Ride: FLHR 09 Join Date: Oct 15th, 2008 Location: AZ, S.East corner/Western WA. Posts: 3,988 My Mood:	Re: Runs rough when hot Hey, Zippy-bcortani If you moved another 1900 miles to Az. You could ride year around... Lots of Need for your type of work here in Cochise county Az. My S. friends work/ride here. I really feel for you as I Lived In King County (dry compared to your local) for many seasonal damp years and like the drying out that has taken off the Moss that built up from Living full time there. You really live OUT just so the members Know, Way Out... Getting Most of the rain off the ocean up against the Mountain range between You and Civilization. Beautiful area and I imagine still Good Fishing on the Still pristine rivers there. ******* Sounds lik you did the Job right... signed....BUBBIE __________________ *********************** Quite Often I am Right so Forgive me when I'm WRONG!!!.......

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