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Horn questions

Softail Models

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Old Jun 5th, 2012, 05:41 PM     #1
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Horn questions

1ST question I have a 99 FLSTF and want to install a Roadrunner car horn do I need a relay or does the bike already have one. Just can't find all the info I need to answer this question.
2nd question where does the relay go and how never done this before so all new to me.
Sorry if these sound like stupid questions.
any help will be welcomed...
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Old Jun 6th, 2012, 01:16 AM     #2
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Re: Horn questions

I have a 1998 & also a 2000 year Softail manual. On both those years, there was no horn relay from the factory. My guess is that your 1999 also does not have a factory relay.
Having a relay is always preferred. Whether you Really need it is based on what the current draw is on the Road-Runner Horn. If the new horn draws about the same current as the factory horn, you probably could get away without using it. Using a relay will make the horn really "jump" when you hit the button.

See=> Automotive Ice Cube Relay Basics
To install a cube horn relay, wire the coil terminals of the relay (85 & 86) to the wires where the factory horn is right now. So now when you press the horn button, the relay will pick instead of the horn beeping. From here all you have to do is wire the normally open contacts of the relay (87 & 30). Terminal 30 will go to Battery hot w/ key ON and 87 will go to the road runner horn. If the Road Runner horn self grounds when bolted to frame, your done. Otherwise ground the other wire coming from the Road-Runner Horn. Use 14 AWG wire from terminal 30 to Battery fuse.
Beep-Beep!
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Old Jun 6th, 2012, 01:37 AM     #3
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Re: Horn questions

Quote: Originally Posted by Hoople View Post
I have a 1998 & also a 2000 year Softail manual. On both those years, there was no horn relay from the factory. My guess is that your 1999 also does not have a factory relay.
Having a relay is always preferred. Whether you Really need it is based on what the current draw is on the Road-Runner Horn. If the new horn draws about the same current as the factory horn, you probably could get away without using it. Using a relay will make the horn really "jump" when you hit the button.

To install a cube horn relay, wire the coil terminals of the relay (85 & 86) to the wires where the factory horn is right now. So now when you press the horn button, the relay will pick instead of the horn beeping. From here all you have to do is wire the normally open contacts of the relay (87 & 30). Terminal 30 will go to Battery hot w/ key ON and 87 will go to the road runner horn. If the Road Runner horn self grounds when bolted to frame, your done. Otherwise ground the other wire coming from the Road-Runner Horn. Use 14 AWG wire from terminal 30 to Battery fuse.
Beep-Beep!
The stock horn has 2 wires so 1 must be the ground and the other hot right. 30 should go to a red wire which is hot when key turned on am right on this or am I all (EDIT) up. I never wired a relay before so I am stuipd on that. lol
thanks for your input.

Please read this...
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Old Jun 6th, 2012, 09:03 AM     #4
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Re: Horn questions

Quote: Originally Posted by cobrahd1999 View Post
The stock horn has 2 wires so 1 must be the ground and the other hot right. 30 should go to a red wire which is hot when key turned on
Yes, that is correct. On my 2009, the horn is rubber mounted so it is insulated from the frame. But cage horns usually are grounded through their mounting bolts especially on American cars. So on your "Beep Beep" horn you may need a little pigtail wire if you retain the rubber insulator on your bike.
Take a look at the attachment PDF. It's for a 2000 Softail but your bike is probably close. The horn shows two wires. The yellow/black wire goes directly to the horn button on the bars. That right there tells you there is no relay and all the horn current flows through the bars horn button. The power source for the horn is the orange/white wire on the other side of the horn button. Note all the other loads that are tapped off that orange wire while it makes it way back to the ACC 15 amp fuse. The ignition switch nomenclature has a type-o in it so don't let that confuse you. If you really have a spare 15 amp fuse as the schematic shows, that would be a perfect place to get power for your cube relay. Pin 30 of the relay would go to that spare 15 amp fuse. Pin 87 of the relay (normally open) would go to the Beep Beep horn. Then a short pigtail from the Beep Beep to frame ground. Check that spare fuse with a meter first to make sure it is hot in RUN position.
The original yellow/black and solid black wires from the factory horn will go to relay pins #85 & #86.

The only caution of the entire project is this..=> Those relays come with and without snubber diodes across the coil winding. It is good practice to have the diode style but chances are you can get away with not having a diode style because your bike is an early model. But if you happen to buy a cube relay with a diode, (also called snubber or suppression diode) you must hook it up with the correct polarity. That's no problem, just point me to the web site where you got the relay and I will tell you what to do with the polarity. It boils down to knowing which pin (85 or 86) goes to the yellow/black wire. Now if you buy a relay without a diode, then don't be concerned with any of this polarity/diode stuff.
Beep Beep!
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File Type: pdf Beep_Beep_2000.pdf (63.0 KB, 11 views)
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Old Jun 6th, 2012, 05:43 PM     #5
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Re: Horn questions

Quote: Originally Posted by Hoople View Post
Yes, that is correct. On my 2009, the horn is rubber mounted so it is insulated from the frame. But cage horns usually are grounded through their mounting bolts especially on American cars. So on your "Beep Beep" horn you may need a little pigtail wire if you retain the rubber insulator on your bike.
Take a look at the attachment PDF. It's for a 2000 Softail but your bike is probably close. The horn shows two wires. The yellow/black wire goes directly to the horn button on the bars. That right there tells you there is no relay and all the horn current flows through the bars horn button. The power source for the horn is the orange/white wire on the other side of the horn button. Note all the other loads that are tapped off that orange wire while it makes it way back to the ACC 15 amp fuse. The ignition switch nomenclature has a type-o in it so don't let that confuse you. If you really have a spare 15 amp fuse as the schematic shows, that would be a perfect place to get power for your cube relay. Pin 30 of the relay would go to that spare 15 amp fuse. Pin 87 of the relay (normally open) would go to the Beep Beep horn. Then a short pigtail from the Beep Beep to frame ground. Check that spare fuse with a meter first to make sure it is hot in RUN position.
The original yellow/black and solid black wires from the factory horn will go to relay pins #85 & #86.

The only caution of the entire project is this..=> Those relays come with and without snubber diodes across the coil winding. It is good practice to have the diode style but chances are you can get away with not having a diode style because your bike is an early model. But if you happen to buy a cube relay with a diode, (also called snubber or suppression diode) you must hook it up with the correct polarity. That's no problem, just point me to the web site where you got the relay and I will tell you what to do with the polarity. It boils down to knowing which pin (85 or 86) goes to the yellow/black wire. Now if you buy a relay without a diode, then don't be concerned with any of this polarity/diode stuff.
Beep Beep!
I hate to ask this but could you draw me up a pic how to put the relay in an the inline fuse, I know this may sound stupid to you but a pic is worth a thousand words lol. I just want to make sure I do this right ya I checked my book also no relay that I could see. Thanks again for your input. I will go to the auto store and get these parts. I think I got all this straight but just want to make sure.
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Old Jun 6th, 2012, 07:19 PM     #6
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Re: Horn questions

Quote: Originally Posted by cobrahd1999 View Post
how to put in an the inline fuse,
I'm worried. You wouldn't be saying this if you were reading my replies. Before you buy anything, you need to see if you actually have a spare fuse holder & fuse as the schematic shows. That would make this job a whole bunch easier and cleaner looking.
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Old Jun 6th, 2012, 08:42 PM     #7
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Re: Horn questions

Quote: Originally Posted by Hoople View Post
I'm worried. You wouldn't be saying this if you were reading my replies. Before you buy anything, you need to see if you actually have a spare fuse holder & fuse as the schematic shows. That would make this job a whole bunch easier and cleaner looking.
I just checked my fuse box no spares. Just 4 and the starter relay. Horn switch power o/w go to a 15 amp fuse. I think I am getting you mad with all this stuff. Something this simple I am making it sound so hard. Hey but thanks for all your help.
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Old Jun 7th, 2012, 04:18 PM     #8
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Re: Horn questions

From the horn to relay does that have to be 14awg also or it really don't matter. I figure if I have 14awg to the horn can't hurt.
thanks again guys.
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Old Jun 7th, 2012, 04:59 PM     #9
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Re: Horn questions

Quote: Originally Posted by cobrahd1999 View Post
From the horn to relay does that have to be 14awg also
Factory horn wires to relay? No, they can be 20 gauge or whatever. Beep Beep Horn to relay, Absolutely Yes. Use 14 AWG because your trying to reduce any voltage drops also.
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Old Jun 7th, 2012, 05:17 PM     #10
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Re: Horn questions

Quote: Originally Posted by Hoople View Post
Factory horn wires to relay? No, they can be 20 gauge or whatever. Beep Beep Horn to relay, Absolutely Yes. Use 14 AWG because your trying to reduce any voltage drops also.
Thanks you been a great help. I just wanted to make sure. Just to let you know I understand everything you said now, I have PTSD and some of meds I take doesn't help brain wasn't working to well.. lol
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