WHAT A MESS ***A TFI and A HD RACE TUNER

Hoople

I know what your saying, but why is it so important to be able to go back to factory stock. The closest canned Factory map you can always go back to is a Stage 1. Then you could go in and do a Global kick back on A/F and probably be pretty close to what was in the the bike when it was purchased. Not Perfect but probably for the most part it would be close. Look at some of the Stage 1 A/F maps. They are still very lean at cruise. Lets face it, the dealership can not make the bike not meet emissions on cruise CO & HC. It would be against the law. WOT is a different thing. For that short burst they can get away with it. Emission stations don't test emissions under WOT. But they do test under cruise.

Also, the ECM will ALWAYS be flagged as having been changed from factory virgin. Even if you were to put the original map back in, the ECM is Flagged that it was changed at one point in time.

walleye

OK, Now I am clear. I was under the impression once you had a SERT, that was it, no other option period. I feel a tiny bit better. LOL.

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Where ever you go....there you are.

BUBBIE

HOOP


The bike runs ONLY a bit lean and i don't want to MUCK her up in the process...

I think the TFI could hook up and do a good job BUT the TFI settings would have to change to NOT give TOO much fuel?

IS MY thinking right???

OR would installing TFI PUT IN IT'S OWN PROGRAM to use?......

I thought the TFI uses in conjunction with the HD map setting and just adds a little broader fuel spray...

I'm wondering if the TFI USES SOME SETTINGS IN THE HD MAP?

YOU get rid of the 02 sensors with the TFI(loop) that being a rid of HEAT +

then ?????

I'll try to get the print out on the page soon

signed....BUBBIE

NIGHTERIDER has a good description of the facts...


they say "
The TFI can best described as a pulse extender. It allows the fuel injectors to stay open longer. thus providing more fuel to the engine."

so it looks like the TFI could be used but I would have to set all 3 pots probably different than the settings SUGGESTED at a start...

signed....BUBBIE

STEVE07

BUBBIE..... I can't see why you couldnt use the TFI and just follow the tuning instructions NOT the pot preset diagrams.Look below.I hope everyone installing TFI units are following this guide and not the preset you get with the unit.

UNDERSTANDING AND ADJUSTING THE POTS:
Green Fuel Pot: (functions like a fuel mixture screw on a carburetor)
Adjusts for the motorcycle's fuel requirements during light load operation, from idle through legal highway cruising speeds and steady throttle, at or below the rpm set by your rpm set pot. We have found that manufacturers have generally leaned out the fuel mixtures for emissions to a specific rpm (see below). To set this pot, make sure the motorcycle is up to a full operating temperature, then while in neutral, pick a fast idle that is not easy to hold a steady rpm (V-twins 1800-2200 rpm and multiple cylinders 2500-3000 rpm), hold the throttle at that spot and then slowly and evenly turn the green pot clockwise from its minimum setting, while listening to the exhaust sound. You should hear the exhaust sound change form an irregular and uneven sound to an even and smooth one. You may also see an increase in rpm as you increase fuel, and if you continue to increase fuel past this point to where the revs start to fall back away, then you can stop and start returning the pot screw back to a point half way between where the exhaust note first smoothed out and the point where the highest rpm starts to fall away.

Yellow Fuel Pot: (functions like an accelerator pump)
This fuel adjustment adds fuel into the fuel map whenever the throttle is opened rapidly. This pot needs to be adjusted from test riding, by performing brisk roll-ons in a specific gear, and by always starting at the exact same rpm. Try one clock position increases between roll-on tests until you can't feel any more improvement, and then go back to the last setting that improvement was noticed. Some models won't require as much fuel as others, so while increasing the yellow by one clock position increments if the motorcycle starts to decrease in throttle response, then turn the yellow back one and a half clock positions

Red Fuel Pot: (functions like a main jet on a carburetor)
This fuel adjustment adds fuel under large load conditions and is generally required when either air intake or quality exhaust system changes occur. This addition happens automatically using our unique load sensing technology, and similar to the road test procedure listed above in yellow fuel, test riding while increasing red fuel will find an optimum setting.

RPM Switch Pot:
All Harley and Metric V-twins Sets the rpm that the green and yellow fuel turns off and the red (main jet) turns on. This adjustment is achieved by setting the pot to about 70% of redline (for example a Harley-Davidson Roadking redline is 5800 rpm and 4000 is 70% of redline) which would be 4:00 o'clock. Verify this setting by revving the bike in neutral and watching for the green and yellow light to go out at the chosen rpm.

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Hoople

Bubbie,
I wish I could help you more on the TFI unit but I know Zip about them. But it Looks like Steve07 has got you covered and has been there and back.

I will be on the side line taking some notes & Learning

Hoop!

Hobbit

Hoop the other issue is there are settings that you cannot alter with the SERT so once the orginal map is gone its back to the dealer for that map
If i had known this also i would have gone for a different unit but i got mine Cheap like £150 cheap - there are better units on the market including the makers own which allows full access to the all the map settings and is a little more user friendly, it can be bought and over write the SERT info they also have a program that you take advantage of and if your SERT is compatible you can use there better constructed maps

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glider

JMHO I wouldn't use the TFI on top of the tuner. I would just get it tuned again on the dyno.

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BUBBIE

THANKS.....
THATS WHERE I WAS HEADED....

signed....BUBBIE