losing top end power

Hoople

Wow, Great PDF. Your Amazing Glider.

Softail,
So looking at Page 4 Figure 4, I assume this is the setup you are using. If you are, there are lots of things to check. Notice the #9 Rotor. It does not state that the windows cut into the rotor are used for an Infra-red chop or ferros metal density (reluctor) identification but I would take a look and clean whatever method they use. If Photo beam method is used, crankcase oil vapors coming in contact with photo beam path would be a killer.

Questions I have:
1) Does page 4, Figure 4, resemble what you have installed on your bike.
2) Are you using the "Green" wire (Vacuum Switch for improved economy) or is it taped off.
3) Which coil are you using (can be single stock <4 ohms, or Crane 8-3006, or 8-3005 or Duals etc)
4) I assume you are using the brown wire for your electronic tach. At ANY time does your tach get erratic, jumpy, when engine starts to back fire?
5) Did bike just start breaking up like this on its own or was some change or modification made at the time this started happening.
6) Do you have access to a Good timing light.
7) Remove the access cover to the HI-4. What position are the dials in for MODE & ADVANCE SLOPE.


Hoop!

glider

This is what I was referring to a while ago

Possible when the mech raised the rev limit he redialed in the advance curve.

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Hoople

10/4 Very Good Point!

Hoop!

softail 88

thanks hopple just got home from ride yes it looks like fig 4 i will have to look tomo to see the exact settings.this was happening before mech even touched it. he did advance my timing a little bit to get more HP.this just started out of no where about a month ago i will let you know tomo for sure.thanks for your help.Glider thanks for your advise but my little 80ci engine was built for higher rpm than the big twin.with the little i have done to her she is at 89hp to the tire

glider

With the additional advance the mechanic did and the curve that the HI 4 is set at, you probably are over advancing the timing. This could be your problem.

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softail 88

i will have the exact numbers tomo good thought but the problem was there before the adjustments been talking to a couple shop owners that i know and they said igintion is prob fine but i should check the coil do you have any sugg on the easy way to check it

glider

The ignition coil will need to be unplugged from the wiring harness at the point where the smaller wires connect to the coil. Once those are un-plugged from the coil, use a ohm-meter to test the primary and secondary windings.

To test the primary windings, connect the ohm-meter to the points on the coil where the wiring harness connected to the coil. The primary resistance should be about 2.5 - 3 ohms.

To test the secondary windings in the coil, put one lead from the ohm-meter to each end of the spark plug wire connections. The secondary winding resistance should be about 10,000- 13,000 ohms. You can check your manual for more specific specs on your coil.

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Bud White

I say the whole problem is trying to over rev it .. just a guess

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softail 88

http://69.20.53.62/pdf/90004000a.pdf
this is the igintion that i have i tried to look at my settings but as you will see with the pdf you cant read them my ouestion now is (voes) could of gone bad

Hoople

I don't understand why you say they can't be read. Page 6 has 3 pots and 2 slide switches. So this is the model you have without the "PowerLink" port.?

Do you even know you are using a vacuum advance switch. You may or may not be. That was the reason I asked you that question in an earlier post. If you are, all you would have to do is Disable it by disconnecting the green wire. It is only used to apply extra advance at part throttle during High manifold vacuum to increase fuel mileage. Think it's bad? Disconnect the Green wire.

You are not using a systematic approach to troubleshooting your problem. Trust me, Shot-gunning parts is the Kiss of Death when you are trying to find the ROOT cause of your problem. Just my 2 cents.