Timing is way out... no seeming adjustment

oowf

So Glider.. what all would I need to order to make the change? And also, since I have a timing problem right now that does not seem to be going away, won't I still have the same problem with a points plate and points setup? Sorry I'm so naive about this.

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The Oowf

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TQuentin1

As Glider said above, hard to check the ignition module without the electrical and electronic specs and equipment to do so. But here are my suggestion going forward:

Since you have the parts already ordered, I would replace the suspect parts with those when they come in setting the bike back to "stock" configuration.

With the new nose cone, sensor plate, VOES, verified timing in the cam chest and having checked the continuity of the wiring, the ignition system BEYOND the Ignition Module has been checked and verified.

Once you have everything back together, follow the book to the letter to see if you can set the static timing and then fine tune dynamically.

If you can NOT get it to work per the book, it points towards the Module. At that point, I would suggest replacing the Ignition Module. What else could it be?

Since you have the new VOES and sensor plate, you might just get another replacement module rather than an aftermarket one. You can replace the entire ignition system (including the coils) sometime in the future. By replacing the Ignition Module, the ENTIRE ignition system (except for the coils which are NOT suspect at this time) will be new and back to original condition. I would try THAT first.

TQ

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glider

Not sure about the coils if they would be the same as with a points system as far as ohms but as for a change over to points, you would need the parts in the nose cone like the advance mechanism, points plate, points and condenser.
Pretty much what you see here if you didn't want to replace the module.

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ultrat

I to could never see timming marks in hole on my 93 flh. I recall MOCO had stamped marks in wrong spot on wheeles W/ I asked at HD shop I may be wrong. I switched over to a crane hi 4 sys, i may have ign module in garage Ill check W/ I get home.It would be for a 93 harness. Tom..

came home and looked for ign module i have not found it i may have allready given it away. ill keep looking...

oowf

That's a question I am not sure about. It makes no sense to me that I can't even get static timing within the given range of the sensor plate movement unless something inside the engine is/was not installed correctly but I am assuming that since the Breather Gear, Cam Gear and Pinion Gear marks all line up there isn't anything else that could be out as far as the mechanical parts of the engine are concerned so, hopefully things will come together when the new parts arrive.

Meantime, I am doing as Glider suggested and going through the intake (I did find the two intake seals were very hard and crusty on the surface so they will be replaced along with the carburetor to intake throat seal.

I just finished taking the carb apart and it's nice and clean now. I am in the process of reassembling as I write this.

I verified the jet sizes and they are 45 and 180 respectively with about a 3/32 shim on the vacuum needle (right terminology?).

I did ask a question in an earlier post about the cone getting hotter now since I broke the original gasket and made a makeshift. I used several pieces of heavy paper coated in very heavy grease and torqued the cone to specs but it does get hot to the touch and it didn't use to. Maybe my gasket is not as thick as the original was? Is that a problem?

Thanks!

Say Ultrat... Thank for your response and intended help.... amazing people on this site.

Question.. when you couldn't see your timing marks, could you achieve the voltage drop with the static timing or was that bike non electronic?

Again, Thanks

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ultrat

no did not do static timming had screemin eagle module red led went out w/ got ot break spot volt drop.. 'cam needs a certin amt side to side movement make up thicker gasket

gear may have moved on shaft I think they are press fit can u get another cam & try it you can check cam end play w/feeler through lifter block easy way thicker gasket Tom//

glider

Verify the TDC on the front cylinder and the timing mark in the hole and see if the pushrods can be turned with your fingers easily for that cylinder. If you have one that is tight, there's a problem with cam timing then as long as you are on the compression stroke for that cylinder and not 180* out.

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qbert1963

Hey guys this might sound stupid but I'm gonna throw it out there. To make sure your on the com. stroke you have to put your finger on the spark plug hole and feel air forcing your finger off, right or your 180 degrees off. Just thinking whatever it is, it's something stupid. Hope that helped.

ultrat

good idea i forgot about that ...

oowf

This is a new concept for me. Please remember I'm not nearly as knowledgeable as you all are...

It sounds to me that there are two possibilities when going for TDC and the timing mark. Does this last statement mean that I can be at TDC with the vertical timing mark centered in the window and the three gear marks lined up and still be on the wrong stroke?

I apologize for my ignorance.

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