Timing is way out... no seeming adjustment

oowf

Yes, the bike is currently on the stand with the vertical, long hash on the flywheel visible and dead center of the view hole.

I read about also looking in through the spark plug hole to see if the piston was at the top and at this point I can only say "I think it is... " not being expert I am not sure.

I would assume that if I am not correct with this that there is something truly amiss in that with all I have read the piston should be topped out (we are talking about the front, number one piston here) at the same time the vertical timing mark is visible and that is what I think I have achieved. Is there a better way to verify this?

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The Oowf

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glider

If you use a straw or something that will not damage the piston and slowly turn the engine over using the rear wheel and the trans in gear, the straw should rise to the top (highest rise) as the line comes into view in the hole. If they don't occur at the same time, something is out or you are using the wrong timing mark??

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oowf

I will try that right now... will have an answer back to you in ten minutes. Thank You!

The straw trick... why didn't I think of that. Wow!

Ok.. when the vertical slash is dead center of the view port, the piston is at the very top! I checked it several times by moving the wheel back and forth only slightly with the bike in 3rd gear. The straw would go up and down slightly and each time it would "top out" I would look in the port and the vertical slash was back. When it was down slightly (the piston) I would be able to see the two marks on the flywheel.

Thanks

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The Oowf

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glider

Have you verified the condition of the rotor under the sensor plate and that it is fastened securely?

One other question, have you started the bike with the cover off the sensor plate and tried to advance and retard the plate to see how it would run? Sometimes it's the seat of the pants tuning that will tell you many things. Start with the sensor plate in the middle of the adjustment.

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oowf

I took the rotor off, cleaned it as well as the well (inside the cone) and checked for bent places and other abrasions and found none. i was prepared to order a new one of those at the same time but did not as this one seemed in excellent shape although it feels like light guage tin... I suppose that is normal... I just expected more in a rotor.

I have started the bike many times with the cover off and adjusted it like I used to do my 1949 Chevy... by ear... I can get the bike to sound really good by advancing the plate until it stops against the retaining stud. On the old plate I even worried out the adjustment slots to allow me to advance it even further (maybe as much as another 1/8 inch and it even sounded better.

One thing though. After riding the bike in this over advanced condition for about forty minutes I can for sure sense the bike's performance to begin to deteriorate and at times there is this "catch" when starting it. You warned me against this awhile back and I pay special attention to your warnings. This is one reason why I went ahead and ordered new sensor plate and voes valve. I want this to time properly at the mid range point if possible. One should not have to modify the slots in the sensor plate to reach adjustment I think.

Thank You.

In follow up to this question and to clarify my answer a little more, when I do this activity, retarding the sensor will slow the engine down and as I continue to retard the plate the engine will eventually stop. In reverse, in the advance direction it speeds up and continues to speed up until it stops against the stud.

I think this is the normal response I should find, right?

By the way, is there anyone who might be interested in discussing this on Skype?

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The Oowf

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glider

Pretty much the way it works. I really think you have something else going on besides the sensor plate.

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oowf

That is exactly how I feel but I just don't know where to head from here!

Any suggestions?

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The Oowf

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glider

Being it runs poorly after a while of running, check the intake seals for leaks.

Finding An Intake Leak - Harley Davidson Community

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oowf

Thanks Glider...

I have ordered new intake seals and also a new rubber seal that goes where the carb connects to the intake manifold. All this "just in case". Not sure when they will arrive.

Meantime, since I don't wish to do any damage to the bike with the timing issue, do you recommend I leave the sensor plate set at as close to where the static timing 5 volts drop off to the 1 volt as I can? That is the max in the retarded direction and I haven't attempted to start the bike with the sensor plate in that position so I'm not even sure it will start but I can try.

I just don't want to damage something by running the bike with the timing way out.

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The Oowf

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ultrat

comming in late,,,, but if you had cone off w/ fixing broke stud are you sure timming marks ei dots. beteween cam,, timming breather, pump gear, are allinged