Complete Oil Change (softail)

There has been a lot of talk lately about the benefits of scavenging the crankcase when doing an oil change on your engine. There are good products out there that will help you do it but it can also be done by assembling a few small kit items that you can get locally.

To start with, Lisle Tools, and probably others make the tooling to remove your oil line quick connect. Check this link for Lisle-- Detail Page for 37000 Air Conditioning / Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set - Lisle Corporation
These can be purchased from your local Sears store also for around $10.
Also says on the packaging that you can purchase the 3/8" tool (PN 37050) separately (replacement tool) from the complete set from Lisle..

You will also need a length of 3/8" clear tubing that you will put over your oil return line, and a small bucket, preferably with ounces marked on the outside so you can see how much oil you have collected.

A typical scavenge type oil change might go something like this:

Step 1: Run the engine for a bit to get it up to temperature

Step 2: Block up the jiffy stand or use something to get your bike reasonably level.

Step 3: Remove plug from bottom of drain tube under the bike. Drain dirty oil into container.

Step 4: Install drain plug and replace o-ring if it is torn. If it is still in good condition, reuse.

Step 5: Top off oil tank with fresh oil up to the full mark on the dipstick.

Step 6: Use the quick connect tooling and remove the oil return line from the oil tank. It is the one closest to the filler neck on the tank. If your bike has a small aluminum or chrome disc at the tank where the oil line goes in, just grab the disc with your fingers and pull it back. It is only held there by an o-ring to keep it from sliding down the oil line. Pull the line out a bit and move to side to allow you to slip the length of clear tubing over the line. Put the other end of the clear tubing in your scavenge oil bucket.

Step 7: Start the engine and run for about 10 seconds, then shut engine off. This is to purge the oil supply line from the tank, to the pump, then to the filter.

Step 8: Now is the time to remove and change the engine oil filter. Install whatever brand of oil filter you prefer on the engine at this time, hopefully an HD filter.

Step 9: Top off the oil tank again.

Step 10: Start the engine and monitor how much oil is going into the scavenge bucket. Notice how black it is at first. Around 20- 30 seconds or so, it will start to lighten in color as it goes through the tubing. You should have collected somewhere around 24-32 ounces of dirty oil in the bucket. Shut off the engine.

Step 11: Remove the clear tubing from the oil line. Install the oil return line back into the oil tank. You will hear/feel a click as the line snaps back into the connector.

Step 12: Top off the oil tank.

That's all there is to it and now you have completely fresh oil in your engine, no more dirty oil in the oil galleries.

NOTE:
One more thing here and that is not to be tempted to remove the plug in the bottom of the engine sump (case) It has been tried by some and in a few cases they have cracked the engine case doing it.
The plug is there from the manufacturing process for the case and is installed with red locktite.

Installation pics for the scavenger system from rogue choppers...

http://www.roguechopper.com/pdfs/Twi...structions.pdf

Rogue Chopper::Products::..


A total oil change on baggers is possible also but requires a different approach with a kit that has to be installed into the oil lines on the bike which is available here... Rogue Chopper::Welcome

Click "products" after you see the video which is below the screen.

Twin Cam B instructions.pdf - Rogue chopper