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Proper Oil Changing Info

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Proper Oil Changing Info
Published by glider (Community Liaison)
Published date: Dec 25th, 2007

There's much to be said about the proper changing and quantities of oil in Harleys.

I will give some guidelines here to changing the oil and servicing but remember they are only guidelines and the quantities as well as the method of checking them have changed over the years and especially the newer models.

For best results check the owners or factory manual.

To start with a good warm up of the engine is preferred, preferably a ride of about 10 miles to agitate the sediment in the oil and keep it in suspension. It takes quite a while to get the oil up to operating temps.

Dyna/Softail
In the Dynas and softails, engine oil is usually 2 1/2 to 3 quarts depending on the completeness of the oil drain.
In Softails it is recommended to run the bike in the upright position at idle before draining for a few minutes to purge the crankcase of oil. Check this section out for softail oil changes.
Complete Oil Change (softail) - Harley Davidson Community
Always add the 2 1/2 quarts at first and warm the bike then top off as needed using the dipstick as a guide. Oil levels will vary from hot to cold on the dipstick by about 1/2 quart lower when cold.
Some newer models get checked on the side stand, while older ones had to be stood straight up to check. Check your manual here for proper method.
Primary can vary between 24-26 ounces for most models prior to 07.
Fill through the clutch inspection cover to the bottom of the clutch basket only (the silver ring around the edge of the clutch bucket) while standing the bike straight up.
More oil than specified here will cause hard shifting and trouble finding neutral.
Transmission is usually 1 quart and can be checked warmed up with the dipstick that is located under the fill plug usually standing straight up in the older bikes and on the side stand on some of the newer ones. Use a quality gear oil in the transmission as opposed to engine oil and check your manual for the proper quantities of oil and methods of checking them.

Touring Bikes
Here's where the major differences come in.
The touring bikes use 3 1/2 to 4 quarts for engine oil. Always fill to 3 1/2 first and top off as needed using the dipstick when hot. Overfilling can cause oil to be expelled into the air cleaner. Remember here that when you drain the oil from the engine, there's always about 1/2 quart left in the oil galleries and other places so refilling with 4 quarts will make it overfull.
Primary oil will vary here too. The later primaries hold 38 OZ of oil, where as the earlier ones used a quart or less. Again here, fill to the bottom of the clutch basket with the bike standing up straight or hard shifting and trouble finding neutral will result from overfilling.
Transmission is about the same here too with most bikes taking 1 quart and checking upright with the dipstick found under the fill cap on older models and on the side stand on some of the new models. Use a quality gear oil in the transmission as opposed to engine oil.

Drain screws for the transmissions will vary from the bottom of the case in the center between the shocks on softails and also in the bottom edge of the clutch ramp cover on earlier models.

Drain screws for the transmission on baggers will be the one facing downward in the bottom of the oil pan while the one facing front on the leading edge of the oil pan is for engine oil.

Use proper torque and new "O" rings when changing oil and remember that a steel drain plug going into an aluminum alloy case can cause problems if not installed correctly or over tightened.

Use these as guidelines only and consult your owners manual for verification of fluid capacities and methods of checking.(On side stand or straight up)

NOTE:
One more thing here and that is not to be tempted to remove the plug in the bottom of the engine sump (case) It has been tried by some and in a few cases they have cracked the engine case trying to remove it.
The plug is there from the manufacturing process for the case and is installed with red locktite.
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Old Dec 25th, 2007, 02:48 PM     #1
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Re: Proper Oil Changing

under Dyna/Softail it say most models take 24-26 oz. in the Primary. The owners manual for my '07 FXST says to use 32 oz. just wondering if thats a typo or not?
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Old Dec 25th, 2007, 05:20 PM     #2
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Re: Proper Oil Changing

Quote:
Originally Posted by wildspirit97 View Post
under Dyna/Softail it say most models take 24-26 oz. in the Primary. The owners manual for my '07 FXST says to use 32 oz. just wondering if thats a typo or not?
No, the newer bikes have larger capacities than the older ones in some areas. Fill through the clutch inspection cover to the bottom of the clutch basket to be sure.
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Old Dec 25th, 2007, 06:36 PM     #3
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Re: Proper Oil Changing

Glider,
Thanks very much for your hard work in tiring to keep all of us educated –

Is it possible to see a detailed picture of the top fill mark on the primary clutch housing on a ’08 RG. Other wise I will just measure out 38 ounces or as the owners manual says to us between 35 to 38 ounces.

I am a huge fan of Mobil 1 10w-40 in all of my other bikes.

Thanks again for ALL of you assistance.

Oldrt
Many miles on Japanese, German, and Italian bikes, less than 1000 miles on a Harley -
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Old Dec 25th, 2007, 06:40 PM     #4
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Re: Proper Oil Changing

oldrt

Glad to help you out.

This is where the oil level should be up to in the pic where the red arrow is, the primary cover is removed just to show the fill line. You have to look in and down through the clutch inspection cover and should see the oil just starting to edge over the lip on the basket with the bike straight up and level.




And this is the touring oil pan with the drain bolts.
You'll also find the Dyna engine oil drain bolt in the same place.




This is the softail engine drain from above in the first pic and below in the second pic.




Last edited by glider; Jan 26th, 2008 at 05:31 PM.
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Old Dec 25th, 2007, 06:43 PM     #5
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Re: Proper Oil Changing

Quote:
Originally Posted by glider View Post
No, the newer bikes have larger capacities than the older ones in some areas. Fill through the clutch inspection cover to the bottom of the clutch basket to be sure.
I guess in the end it all boils down to trusting your bike, not a book about it.
Actually checking the levels when you change the oils instead of just pouring a set amount of oil in it and screwing the plug back in!
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Old Sep 1st, 2009, 11:36 AM     #6
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Re: Proper Oil Changing

Glider:

I promise I just spent the last 3-1/2 days looking for an old post that was the most useful yet on oil changes, I promise. I looked through "General Tech" and "Self Help".

I am confident and ready to begin changing all 3 holes, there was an string on here from someone who got everything they needed from a dealer through the web. There was also a very helpful string from joyflyin (I think) about all the tools needed to finish the job.

since most of you guys (and gals) insist this is something that can be done by almost anyone can you please tell me where I could get a list of everything you needed to do the job, all the tools required, and the steps from start to finish to do all three holes at once. Also if this can be purchased as a kit on the web somewhere.

I have an '06 E.G.C, 5-speed and I'm talking about something like;

MOTOR: (4) quarts Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W50, (1) O-Ring for the plug (size? wrench?), Chrome HD oild filter (size/type wrench?), self-made reservoir for directing the oil when the filter is removed....remove oil drain plug (location?), drain oil, remove filter, lubricate new filter seal, replace filter (fill with oil first?), replace O-Ring (lubricate?) on drain plug, replace plug (torgue?), fill crankcase through oil dipstick hole (funnel?) with 3-1/2 quarts, make sure bike is level, start engine, and get oil hot, check dipstick, fill as required to midway between fill lines, (how/when to check? maintain?).

TRANSMISSION: (1) quart (38oz?) Spectro Heavy Duty Platinum 6 Speed Transmission Oil 75W140, (O-Ring) for the plug (size? wrench?)....remove plug (location?), replace O-ring (lubricate?), replace plug (lubricate?), measure 38oz and add to transmission oil through dipstick hole (?)(location?), (how to check? maintain?).

PRIMARY: (1) quart Spectro Heavy Duty Primary Chain Case Oil (weight?), (1) primary gasket....(drain? through?), remove (derby cover? primary cover?), remove old gasket, clean gasket seat (?), fill with to bottom of primary chain(?), replace gasket (lubricate?), replace (deby cover? primary cover?), (torgue?), (how to check? maintain?).

Get on it and ride like you stole it (checking ??? every ???).

Glider, et al, I know this seems second nature to all you guys that have been doing this for years, but there are many of us who never have, always wanted to, but didn't want to take the chance with a $20,000 baby (reassurance, etc.). I want to be inatmately involved with my bike, don't want to pay $75/hr labor for this (I would rather use that money elsewhere), and in todays economy...well you know!

If all of this info is assembled in one tip it would be so handy, if it is I searched in vain and couldn't find it, even in the separate tips, this is hard to string together into a cohesive format.

Thank you,
Gas Gauge!
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Old Sep 1st, 2009, 12:10 PM     #7
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Re: Proper Oil Changing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gas Gauge View Post
Glider:

I promise I just spent the last 3-1/2 days looking for an old post that was the most useful yet on oil changes, I promise. I looked through "General Tech" and "Self Help".

I am confident and ready to begin changing all 3 holes, there was an string on here from someone who got everything they needed from a dealer through the web. There was also a very helpful string from joyflyin (I think) about all the tools needed to finish the job.

since most of you guys (and gals) insist this is something that can be done by almost anyone can you please tell me where I could get a list of everything you needed to do the job, all the tools required, and the steps from start to finish to do all three holes at once. Also if this can be purchased as a kit on the web somewhere.

I have an '06 E.G.C, 5-speed and I'm talking about something like;

MOTOR: (4) quarts Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W50, (1) O-Ring for the plug (size? wrench?), Chrome HD oild filter (size/type wrench?), self-made reservoir for directing the oil when the filter is removed....remove oil drain plug (location?), drain oil, remove filter, lubricate new filter seal, replace filter (fill with oil first?), replace O-Ring (lubricate?) on drain plug, replace plug (torgue?), fill crankcase through oil dipstick hole (funnel?) with 3-1/2 quarts, make sure bike is level, start engine, and get oil hot, check dipstick, fill as required to midway between fill lines, (how/when to check? maintain?).

3 1/2 then add IF you need it.
The drain plug locations are in the manual and the self help area.You are making this much more difficult on yourself than necessary. Most of these questions will be answered when you start the job and the answers like said above will be in the manual and the self help section under the right topic.

TRANSMISSION: (1) quart (38oz?) Spectro Heavy Duty Platinum 6 Speed Transmission Oil 75W140, (O-Ring) for the plug (size? wrench?)....remove plug (location?), replace O-ring (lubricate?), replace plug (lubricate?), measure 38oz and add to transmission oil through dipstick hole (?)(location?), (how to check? maintain?).

1 Qt here, not 38 ounces


PRIMARY: (1) quart Spectro Heavy Duty Primary Chain Case Oil (weight?), (1) primary gasket....(drain? through?), remove (derby cover? primary cover?), remove old gasket, clean gasket seat (?), fill with to bottom of primary chain(?), replace gasket (lubricate?), replace (deby cover? primary cover?), (torgue?), (how to check? maintain?).

Fill to the bottom of the clutch basket.The manual will tell the rest. I don't mean to sound short here but the manual will give you all the specs on what you are doing. The wrench sizes can be determined by trying a wrench on the nut like a 5/8" wrench.
Oil Suggestions For Harleys - Harley Davidson Community


Get on it and ride like you stole it (checking ??? every ???).

Glider, et al, I know this seems second nature to all you guys that have been doing this for years, but there are many of us who never have, always wanted to, but didn't want to take the chance with a $20,000 baby (reassurance, etc.). I want to be inatmately involved with my bike, don't want to pay $75/hr labor for this (I would rather use that money elsewhere), and in todays economy...well you know!

If all of this info is assembled in one tip it would be so handy, if it is I searched in vain and couldn't find it, even in the separate tips, this is hard to string together into a cohesive format.

Thank you,
Gas Gauge!
Hope this helps you.
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Old Sep 10th, 2009, 09:41 AM     #8
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Re: Proper Oil Changing Info

Hope I'm not too late, but this should be the link to my first service. I think you will really be okay on the project. Let us know how it goes.

Joyflyin Does A Service - Harley Davidson Community

Last edited by glider; Sep 10th, 2009 at 09:43 AM. Reason: repair link
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Old Sep 18th, 2009, 10:50 PM     #9
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Re: Proper Oil Changing Info

i was just trying to explain to a friend where the oil drain is on his king, i remembered seeing this a few months ago and told him to take a peek, thanx, gr8 info
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