Harley Davidson Forums

CatWoman · Sep 6th, 2009, 02:31 AM

Glider,
On Tuesday, (darn the holiday!!), I will be breaking in my re-redone 1989 FLHTCU with a Screaming Eagle III (top and bottom end - I did it myself, with lots of help from the garage owner and several people in this forum

).

Quick recap - I bought her this April and recently, experience a slight loss in compression in the front cylinder (cold seizing) and opted to take care of the oil leak in the crankcase while doing the top end.

To the point: I still have the pre-teardown oil filter containing 20w50 semi-synthetic oil) in place as well as a small amount of oil contained in the oil tank and oil cooler. I plan to break the new motor in with non-synthetic 10w40 oil. Should I replace the oil filter and remove all the 20w50 as possible or is it okay to mix the two oils during the start up?

I have my route all picked out for the 30-60 break-in, but what about when I first start her in the shop? The garage owner (he will absolutely be there) loves to rev the engines right after he starts them -- getting into the 3-4000 rpm range if not higher, while still on the lift

. I hate to get so incredibly picky, but this is VERY important to me!! Also, he is insisting all we need to do is add the non-synthetic oil and after driving her around at normal speeds for 500 miles, then changing the filter. What is the max amount of milage after, the 100 or so miles of the 30-60, can/should I go before I change the filter and switch to the semi-synthetic 20w50 again

?

By the way, I live in Arizona

and the oil cooler made an incredible difference in keeping her cool on these hot days!!

Thanks for helping us get back on the road!!

cedarbrook63 · Sep 6th, 2009, 03:48 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by CatWoman View Post

Glider,
On Tuesday, (darn the holiday!!), I will be breaking in my re-redone 1989 FLHTCU with a Screaming Eagle III (top and bottom end - I did it myself, with lots of help from the garage owner and several people in this forum

).

What is the max amount of milage after, the 100 or so miles of the 30-60, can/should I go before I change the filter and switch to the semi-synthetic 20w50 again

?

By the way, I live in Arizona

and the oil cooler made an incredible difference in keeping her cool on these hot days!!

Thanks for helping us get back on the road!!

First off CatWoman - congrats on doing all that work on your bike - I hope to reach that skill level one day, and best wishes for many safe and happy miles.

Just one point I saw in your post to Glider to clarify: the (30-60-30 in 3rd)x10 break in routine is not over 100 miles, just ten times in a row on a new engine.

For the record, I did this late (80 or 90 miles) on my stock Sportster, not having seen the posts in time, but the engine still felt appreciably smoother on the ride home. Have since Stage 1'ed it and it goes beautifully with nary a drop of oil drunk from what I can see

. Enjoy Tuesday.

glider · Sep 6th, 2009, 07:02 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by CatWoman View Post

Glider,
On Tuesday, (darn the holiday!!), I will be breaking in my re-redone 1989 FLHTCU with a Screaming Eagle III (top and bottom end - I did it myself, with lots of help from the garage owner and several people in this forum

).

Quick recap - I bought her this April and recently, experience a slight loss in compression in the front cylinder (cold seizing) and opted to take care of the oil leak in the crankcase while doing the top end.

To the point: I still have the pre-teardown oil filter containing 20w50 semi-synthetic oil) in place as well as a small amount of oil contained in the oil tank and oil cooler. I plan to break the new motor in with non-synthetic 10w40 oil. Should I replace the oil filter and remove all the 20w50 as possible or is it okay to mix the two oils during the start up?

I would try to stay with a non syn 20/50 instead of the 10/40 because the motor will be tight when you first start it up. I wouldn't let anyone rev a new motor when it's first started. The oil has to reach all areas of the motor first before revving it. I wouldn't let anyone rev my motor anytime either. Satating a fresh motor it's OK to raise the RPM at idle with the grip for the first start to get the oil flowing. I like to crank the engine with the coil disconnected to get oil into the engine first.

I have my route all picked out for the 30-60 break-in, but what about when I first start her in the shop? The garage owner (he will absolutely be there) loves to rev the engines right after he starts them -- getting into the 3-4000 rpm range if not higher, while still on the lift

. I hate to get so incredibly picky, but this is VERY important to me!! Also, he is insisting all we need to do is add the non-synthetic oil and after driving her around at normal speeds for 500 miles, then changing the filter. What is the max amount of milage after, the 100 or so miles of the 30-60, can/should I go before I change the filter and switch to the semi-synthetic 20w50 again

?

You should do the 30-60 routine and after that just ride as normal with no high revving or lugging. I like to change the oil at 100 miles in any engine be it new or just rebuilt then move on to your regular scheduled oil changes after that (I use the 2500 mile changes with a filter). Synthetic oil can be used at this point too, you can also break in with synthetic oils but the cost of doing the 100 mile change usually makes owners use a dino oil for the breakin. As far as the remaining oil in the filter etc. no problem there, it will be OK even if the dino oil and synthetic oil mix at some point, they mix fine with each other.

By the way, I live in Arizona

and the oil cooler made an incredible difference in keeping her cool on these hot days!!

Thanks for helping us get back on the road!!

Hope that covered it all.

CatWoman · Sep 6th, 2009, 03:19 PM

Thanks for the encouragement Cedarbrook63!!!

Ya hoo, Glider!! Using the 20/50 will make the initial oil change very easy.

Then, I think I'll do

the second oil change at home. Finally, I will guard my throttle like crazy

and do my best to keep the revying to a minimum!

I can't wait to be riding again, it's been way to long. But it's GREAT to know all this work is done right, I hate having to doing things more than once because of avoidable mistakes.

Thanks again for the info!!

Riding soon!

glider · Sep 6th, 2009, 07:04 PM

Let's see some pics too

Elmosac · Sep 6th, 2009, 10:09 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by glider View Post

Two corrections here, not to go even close to redline and not to a stall in gear, that's lugging and bad for the bottom end. You want to keep it running at a reasonable RPM.

Proper Engine Break In For New Motors - Harley Davidson Community

Glider,

I'm glad you made that correction. I have found your suggestions pretty reasonable but thought this one sounded bad.

You're so right that you don't want to get close to redline or stalling a new motor.

Elmosac · Sep 6th, 2009, 10:14 PM

If you have to take the highway to get home just have whoever gives you a ride to pick up the bike follow you with the hazzards on and do what you need to do as far as speeding up and slowing down. I'd keep it below 55mph for the first 100 miles and as has been said several times don't let the motor run at the same rpm for very long.

hdrocks · Sep 7th, 2009, 12:40 AM

My 2009 1200 sportster has about 200 miles on it. My dealer says to bring it in at 1000 miles to do major adjustments and oil change. I have not gone on the highway and also kept the speed no more than 50-55 miles. It seems some of you suggest changing oils sooner....

walleye · Sep 7th, 2009, 12:45 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by serendipity View Post

My 2009 1200 sportster has about 200 miles on it. My dealer says to bring it in at 1000 miles to do major adjustments and oil change. I have not gone on the highway and also kept the speed no more than 50-55 miles. It seems some of you suggest changing oils sooner....

I think the 1000K service is good enuff for initial oil change. I would suggest you read the tech forums here and learn all you can. Especially this thread on break in for right now. No need to baby your ride for 1000K. I would also suggest a fully systhetic oil such as Mobil One for V Twin motors at your first oil change. I am sure you will see more replies on this. Good people here that will steer you right.

walleye · Sep 8th, 2009, 11:52 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by serendipity View Post

oops..sorry this is a dup. I see the useful reply already. as you can tell, i am quite new here, but this is a great forum and learning a lot.
----------------------
I just got my 2009 1200 sportster custom, and the dealer said to bring it in for 1000 mile maintenance which includes the oil change. It has about 200 miles now. It seems some people are recommending to change the oil much earlier. I think I read 100 miles somewhere here. Comments very much appreciated.

Are you reading the posts??

Sep 6th, 2009, 02:31 AM	#11
CatWoman Play The Throttle Ride: 1989 FLHTC Ultra Classic Join Date: Aug 13th, 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 191	Re: New motor break in Glider, On Tuesday, (darn the holiday!!), I will be breaking in my re-redone 1989 FLHTCU with a Screaming Eagle III (top and bottom end - I did it myself, with lots of help from the garage owner and several people in this forum ). Quick recap - I bought her this April and recently, experience a slight loss in compression in the front cylinder (cold seizing) and opted to take care of the oil leak in the crankcase while doing the top end. To the point: I still have the pre-teardown oil filter containing 20w50 semi-synthetic oil) in place as well as a small amount of oil contained in the oil tank and oil cooler. I plan to break the new motor in with non-synthetic 10w40 oil. Should I replace the oil filter and remove all the 20w50 as possible or is it okay to mix the two oils during the start up? I have my route all picked out for the 30-60 break-in, but what about when I first start her in the shop? The garage owner (he will absolutely be there) loves to rev the engines right after he starts them -- getting into the 3-4000 rpm range if not higher, while still on the lift . I hate to get so incredibly picky, but this is VERY important to me!! Also, he is insisting all we need to do is add the non-synthetic oil and after driving her around at normal speeds for 500 miles, then changing the filter. What is the max amount of milage after, the 100 or so miles of the 30-60, can/should I go before I change the filter and switch to the semi-synthetic 20w50 again ? By the way, I live in Arizona and the oil cooler made an incredible difference in keeping her cool on these hot days!! Thanks for helping us get back on the road!!

Sep 6th, 2009, 03:48 AM	#12
cedarbrook63 Community Star Ride: 2009 XL883 -> 1200 SE Stage 1 Join Date: Dec 29th, 2008 Location: Gloucestershire, England Posts: 798 My Mood:	Re: New motor break in Quote: Originally Posted by CatWoman View Post Glider, On Tuesday, (darn the holiday!!), I will be breaking in my re-redone 1989 FLHTCU with a Screaming Eagle III (top and bottom end - I did it myself, with lots of help from the garage owner and several people in this forum ). What is the max amount of milage after, the 100 or so miles of the 30-60, can/should I go before I change the filter and switch to the semi-synthetic 20w50 again ? By the way, I live in Arizona and the oil cooler made an incredible difference in keeping her cool on these hot days!! Thanks for helping us get back on the road!! First off CatWoman - congrats on doing all that work on your bike - I hope to reach that skill level one day, and best wishes for many safe and happy miles. Just one point I saw in your post to Glider to clarify: the (30-60-30 in 3rd)x10 break in routine is not over 100 miles, just ten times in a row on a new engine. For the record, I did this late (80 or 90 miles) on my stock Sportster, not having seen the posts in time, but the engine still felt appreciably smoother on the ride home. Have since Stage 1'ed it and it goes beautifully with nary a drop of oil drunk from what I can see . Enjoy Tuesday.

Sep 6th, 2009, 07:02 AM	#13
glider Frozen Account Ride: 07 Road King Join Date: Jun 21st, 2007 Posts: 25,999 My Mood:	Re: New motor break in Quote: Originally Posted by CatWoman View Post Glider, On Tuesday, (darn the holiday!!), I will be breaking in my re-redone 1989 FLHTCU with a Screaming Eagle III (top and bottom end - I did it myself, with lots of help from the garage owner and several people in this forum ). Quick recap - I bought her this April and recently, experience a slight loss in compression in the front cylinder (cold seizing) and opted to take care of the oil leak in the crankcase while doing the top end. To the point: I still have the pre-teardown oil filter containing 20w50 semi-synthetic oil) in place as well as a small amount of oil contained in the oil tank and oil cooler. I plan to break the new motor in with non-synthetic 10w40 oil. Should I replace the oil filter and remove all the 20w50 as possible or is it okay to mix the two oils during the start up? I would try to stay with a non syn 20/50 instead of the 10/40 because the motor will be tight when you first start it up. I wouldn't let anyone rev a new motor when it's first started. The oil has to reach all areas of the motor first before revving it. I wouldn't let anyone rev my motor *anytime* either. Satating a fresh motor it's OK to raise the RPM at idle with the grip for the first start to get the oil flowing. I like to crank the engine with the coil disconnected to get oil into the engine first. I have my route all picked out for the 30-60 break-in, but what about when I first start her in the shop? The garage owner (he will absolutely be there) loves to rev the engines right after he starts them -- getting into the 3-4000 rpm range if not higher, while still on the lift . I hate to get so incredibly picky, but this is VERY important to me!! Also, he is insisting all we need to do is add the non-synthetic oil and after driving her around at normal speeds for 500 miles, then changing the filter. What is the max amount of milage after, the 100 or so miles of the 30-60, can/should I go before I change the filter and switch to the semi-synthetic 20w50 again ? You should do the 30-60 routine and after that just ride as normal with no high revving or lugging. I like to change the oil at 100 miles in any engine be it new or just rebuilt then move on to your regular scheduled oil changes after that (I use the 2500 mile changes with a filter). Synthetic oil can be used at this point too, you can also break in with synthetic oils but the cost of doing the 100 mile change usually makes owners use a dino oil for the breakin. As far as the remaining oil in the filter etc. no problem there, it will be OK even if the dino oil and synthetic oil mix at some point, they mix fine with each other. By the way, I live in Arizona and the oil cooler made an incredible difference in keeping her cool on these hot days!! Thanks for helping us get back on the road!! Hope that covered it all.

Sep 6th, 2009, 03:19 PM	#14
CatWoman Play The Throttle Ride: 1989 FLHTC Ultra Classic Join Date: Aug 13th, 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 191	Re: New motor break in Thanks for the encouragement Cedarbrook63!!! Ya hoo, Glider!! Using the 20/50 will make the initial oil change very easy. Then, I think I'll do the second oil change at home. Finally, I will guard my throttle like crazy and do my best to keep the revying to a minimum! I can't wait to be riding again, it's been way to long. But it's GREAT to know all this work is done right, I hate having to doing things more than once because of avoidable mistakes. Thanks again for the info!! Riding soon!

Sep 6th, 2009, 07:04 PM	#15
glider Frozen Account Ride: 07 Road King Join Date: Jun 21st, 2007 Posts: 25,999 My Mood:	Re: New motor break in Let's see some pics too

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Sep 6th, 2009, 10:09 PM	#16
Elmosac Play The Throttle Ride: 07 FLHR Join Date: Mar 7th, 2009 Location: Fredericksburg, VA Posts: 174	Re: New motor break in Quote: Originally Posted by glider View Post Two corrections here, not to go even close to redline and not to a stall in gear, that's lugging and bad for the bottom end. You want to keep it running at a reasonable RPM. Proper Engine Break In For New Motors - Harley Davidson Community Glider, I'm glad you made that correction. I have found your suggestions pretty reasonable but thought this one sounded bad. You're so right that you don't want to get close to redline or stalling a new motor. __________________ Elmo 2007 FLHR

Sep 6th, 2009, 10:14 PM	#17
Elmosac Play The Throttle Ride: 07 FLHR Join Date: Mar 7th, 2009 Location: Fredericksburg, VA Posts: 174	Re: New motor break in If you have to take the highway to get home just have whoever gives you a ride to pick up the bike follow you with the hazzards on and do what you need to do as far as speeding up and slowing down. I'd keep it below 55mph for the first 100 miles and as has been said several times don't let the motor run at the same rpm for very long. __________________ Elmo 2007 FLHR

Sep 7th, 2009, 12:40 AM	#18
hdrocks Warming The Wheels Ride: 2010 Fat Boy Low Join Date: Aug 12th, 2009 Location: Illinois Posts: 142	Re: New motor break in My 2009 1200 sportster has about 200 miles on it. My dealer says to bring it in at 1000 miles to do major adjustments and oil change. I have not gone on the highway and also kept the speed no more than 50-55 miles. It seems some of you suggest changing oils sooner....

Sep 7th, 2009, 12:45 AM	#19
walleye Banned Ride: 2009 Ultra Classic Join Date: Jan 25th, 2009 Location: Oklahoma via North Dakota Posts: 947 My Mood:	Re: New motor break in Quote: Originally Posted by serendipity View Post My 2009 1200 sportster has about 200 miles on it. My dealer says to bring it in at 1000 miles to do major adjustments and oil change. I have not gone on the highway and also kept the speed no more than 50-55 miles. It seems some of you suggest changing oils sooner.... I think the 1000K service is good enuff for initial oil change. I would suggest you read the tech forums here and learn all you can. Especially this thread on break in for right now. No need to baby your ride for 1000K. I would also suggest a fully systhetic oil such as Mobil One for V Twin motors at your first oil change. I am sure you will see more replies on this. Good people here that will steer you right.

Sep 8th, 2009, 11:52 PM	#20
walleye Banned Ride: 2009 Ultra Classic Join Date: Jan 25th, 2009 Location: Oklahoma via North Dakota Posts: 947 My Mood:	Re: New motor break in Quote: Originally Posted by serendipity View Post oops..sorry this is a dup. I see the useful reply already. as you can tell, i am quite new here, but this is a great forum and learning a lot. ---------------------- I just got my 2009 1200 sportster custom, and the dealer said to bring it in for 1000 mile maintenance which includes the oil change. It has about 200 miles now. It seems some people are recommending to change the oil much earlier. I think I read 100 miles somewhere here. Comments very much appreciated. Are you reading the posts??

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