Trailering Tips

Posted by SledDog

When you compress the suspension DO NOT COMPRESS THE SHOCK OR FORKS ALL THE WAY DOWN. You will cause problems with the valving.

Compress the front about an inch or so. The rear can be compressed about the same. This give you stability. You will notice you can still bounce the forks and shocks. Having the suspension move is not a problem. You want the suspension to move when the trailer hit bumps or holes.

Ride the bike on the trailer, put it front tire in the shoe, jiffy stand up or down is up to you. Leave it in gear and start tying down front to rear. Use extension loops. This way the metal hook are away from the bike. You can put the loops on the bottom triple tree. Or if the fairing interferes with using the bottom triple tree, attach the loops low on the frame. You can still compress the front forks with the straps on the frame. DO NOT USE THE HANDLE BARS!! You could bend or break 'em! This is very true if you bars are rubber mounted.

For the rear, look under your bike and see if there is anywhere to attach the hooks, or use the loops again. There should be a frame support that you can use. I use an "X" pattern when tying down the rear. Hook on the left rear side of bike goes to the right rear tight down point. And the same for the opposite side. Tying down the rear keeps it from swinging around.

I tow using an enclosed trailer. Therefore, since I can't see the straps while I'm driving, I put an extra set on the front gong to a different anchor point. Two sets make sure that if one fails, the bike won't be tossed around the trailer.

Stop after the first 20 miles or so to check your straps. And then check 'em every time you stop.

Also this post...
How To Trailer Your Bike - Harley Davidson Community

KIT CUSTOM · Jul 21st, 2008, 11:35 PM

Hi,
I've gone through Home depot $30 tie downs to Wal mart $50 tie downs.The other day I ordered a $100 set from Powertye. So far every time I trailer I have to stop and retie evrery 100 miles or so. As for compressing the front forks an inch it doesn't work for me. That allows the bike to bounce which stretches the strap, bends the S hooks or breaks the ratchet, all of which has happened to me at different times.
I'm going to try removing the front fender and putting a brace between the lower triple tree and tire. That should get rid of any bounce and not hurt the suspension which is what I think is causing the problem.
The other part of the problem is 80-85 MPH on some New England roads heading to central Maine but we cant change that, can we.

STEVE07 · Oct 28th, 2008, 03:16 AM

Use a good wheel chock when tying a big bike down (self standing such as the Bike Pro) I use a wheel strap over the front tire and two soft straps gently pulling it rearward and I have never had a problem. I should mention I am a trailer manufacturer/retailer.

wolfshead1 · Oct 30th, 2008, 10:15 AM

I have a chock like a Condor but a cheaper HF version.I put bike in chock then strap front wheel.Then I run a strap around the floorboard bracket on each side and hook to the tee bar on the chock.

The chock is fastened to the floor of trailer.My Ultra has a hitch on it so I loop a strap over the ball and cinch each hook to it's own side of the trailer floor.

What I gain by this method is no straps on bars that can easily bend the bars and walk around room in the trailer.I do put very little tension on the front and rear suspension.

I cover the bike making sure no fabric will be rubbing on paint.

good to go,
wolfshead1

threesteps · Oct 30th, 2008, 10:56 AM

I agree with the last two comments. If you are going to trailer, spend some bucks on a good chock type system (Condor, etc.). You will not need to compress your forks more than an inch or so with these types of systems. If you still want to fly while trailering over rough roads I would still recommend checking you tie downs periodically. Good luck.

glider · Oct 30th, 2008, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolfshead1

I cover the bike making sure no fabric will be rubbing on paint.

good to go,
wolfshead1

Word of caution when covering the bike. The wind and it's effect on a cover when used trailering CAN have some detrimental effects on the paint.Better to clean the bike when you get where you are going or use an enclosed trailer.

Jul 21st, 2008, 11:35 PM	#1
KIT CUSTOM Start The Engine Ride: 2005 CUSTOM Join Date: Mar 2nd, 2008 Location: NYC Posts: 27 My Mood:	Re: Trailering Tips Hi, I've gone through Home depot $30 tie downs to Wal mart $50 tie downs.The other day I ordered a $100 set from Powertye. So far every time I trailer I have to stop and retie evrery 100 miles or so. As for compressing the front forks an inch it doesn't work for me. That allows the bike to bounce which stretches the strap, bends the S hooks or breaks the ratchet, all of which has happened to me at different times. I'm going to try removing the front fender and putting a brace between the lower triple tree and tire. That should get rid of any bounce and not hurt the suspension which is what I think is causing the problem. The other part of the problem is 80-85 MPH on some New England roads heading to central Maine but we cant change that, can we.

Oct 28th, 2008, 03:16 AM	#2
STEVE07 Moderators Ride: 2007FLHTC Join Date: Oct 4th, 2008 Location: Kitchener Ontario Canada Posts: 3,577 My Mood:	Re: Trailering Tips Use a good wheel chock when tying a big bike down (self standing such as the Bike Pro) I use a wheel strap over the front tire and two soft straps gently pulling it rearward and I have never had a problem. I should mention I am a trailer manufacturer/retailer.

Oct 30th, 2008, 10:15 AM	#3
wolfshead1 Warming The Wheels Ride: 2007 ultra Join Date: Oct 3rd, 2008 Posts: 53 My Mood:	Re: Trailering Tips I have a chock like a Condor but a cheaper HF version.I put bike in chock then strap front wheel.Then I run a strap around the floorboard bracket on each side and hook to the tee bar on the chock. The chock is fastened to the floor of trailer.My Ultra has a hitch on it so I loop a strap over the ball and cinch each hook to it's own side of the trailer floor. What I gain by this method is no straps on bars that can easily bend the bars and walk around room in the trailer.I do put very little tension on the front and rear suspension. I cover the bike making sure no fabric will be rubbing on paint. good to go, wolfshead1

Oct 30th, 2008, 10:56 AM	#4
threesteps Community Star Ride: 2003 Wide Glide Join Date: Sep 20th, 2008 Posts: 492 My Mood:	Re: Trailering Tips I agree with the last two comments. If you are going to trailer, spend some bucks on a good chock type system (Condor, etc.). You will not need to compress your forks more than an inch or so with these types of systems. If you still want to fly while trailering over rough roads I would still recommend checking you tie downs periodically. Good luck.

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