Compensator Upgrade Update

RetiredJake · Nov 19th, 2009, 10:30 AM

I'm confused about something. Why do you have to remove the rotor? I have looked at the manual for my '08 Dyna, and it seems to me the rotor is behind the compensator and you should be able to replace it without removing the rotor. What am I missing?

They say that ignorance is bliss, I guess I'm one happy guy.

Went back and looked a little closer and answered my own question.

Hoople · Nov 19th, 2009, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PigSnot

Will likely need to grind away a little flash from the inner primary case to remove the rotor. Would probably get a little grindstone with ¼ inch shaft and use on a drill, and lots of rags to stuff in the primary case to keep all the grinding away.

Comments/opinions are welcomed and appreciated.

Sounds and looks like you have a plan. But instead of using a grindstone, I would use a carbide die grinding bit. Grinding stones shed a lot of "stone" which is nasty stuff. All the rags in the world won't keep stone particles out since the entire working area is oily. A Carbide bit won't shed anything. Inner cover particles left behind are no where as bad as Stone particles.

Dr. Doolittle · Nov 19th, 2009, 04:10 PM

OK, the more I review this and other related threads, the more I'm convinced this is something I want to do. I've read through the section in my service manual that talks about removing and installing the drive components and I have a couple questions. These might be answered in the instructions that come with the new compensator but I don't have those yet.

1. "Using a breaker bar, rotate compensating sprocket bolt in direction shown to remove." What exactly is a breaker bar? Is it a specific tool or an extension you put on your handle to increase leverage?

2. Can anyone explain what the picture is below every figure displaying the opened primary? Looks like a set of stairs with the international symbol for "NO" over it. Don't work on your bike while it's on the stairs? I really hadn't planned on trying that one!

PigSnot · Nov 20th, 2009, 01:48 AM

The instructions are available for download from HD site:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US...ts/-J04825.pdf

1. I think the breaker bar is the handle/lever that comes with socket sets with just the drive stub, without the ratchet head, so that more pressure can be applied without fear of wrecking the ratchet gears. Can be purchased separate. If needed, I would slip a pipe extension for added leverage over this, but not on a ratchet.

2. Again, my understanding, the ‘no set of stairs’ used to be the locking tool of previous years and models. Placed near the top of the sprocket and underneath the chain (1 o’clock position) it would stop the chain from moving. Seems it caused uneven stretching of the chain, and thus an issue. Now the drive locking tool is made from flat bar operating on the sprockets. The way the primary and 'no stairs' displays seems way out of proportions as the block is probably quite small.

I’m just new to Harleys, but enjoying the learning curve…

PigSnot · Nov 20th, 2009, 01:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoople

Sounds and looks like you have a plan. But instead of using a grindstone, I would use a carbide die grinding bit. Grinding stones shed a lot of "stone" which is nasty stuff. All the rags in the world won't keep stone particles out since the entire working area is oily. A Carbide bit won't shed anything. Inner cover particles left behind are no where as bad as Stone particles.

Thanks Hoople. I'll go for that.

fin_676 · Nov 20th, 2009, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr. Doolittle

OK, the more I review this and other related threads, the more I'm convinced this is something I want to do. I've read through the section in my service manual that talks about removing and installing the drive components and I have a couple questions. These might be answered in the instructions that come with the new compensator but I don't have those yet.

1. "Using a breaker bar, rotate compensating sprocket bolt in direction shown to remove." What exactly is a breaker bar? Is it a specific tool or an extension you put on your handle to increase leverage?

2. Can anyone explain what the picture is below every figure displaying the opened primary? Looks like a set of stairs with the international symbol for "NO" over it. Don't work on your bike while it's on the stairs? I really hadn't planned on trying that one!

Breaker bar is a long bar with a square drive 0n a pin mounting allowing you to adjust the angle you are pulling from
normal length would be about 24" great tool for easing off tight fastners one of the best investments ive ever made

Brian

Dr. Doolittle · Nov 20th, 2009, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PigSnot

The instructions are available for download from HD site:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US...ts/-J04825.pdf

1. I think the breaker bar is the handle/lever that comes with socket sets with just the drive stub, without the ratchet head, so that more pressure can be applied without fear of wrecking the ratchet gears. Can be purchased separate. If needed, I would slip a pipe extension for added leverage over this, but not on a ratchet.

2. Again, my understanding, the ‘no set of stairs’ used to be the locking tool of previous years and models. Placed near the top of the sprocket and underneath the chain (1 o’clock position) it would stop the chain from moving. Seems it caused uneven stretching of the chain, and thus an issue. Now the drive locking tool is made from flat bar operating on the sprockets. The way the primary and 'no stairs' displays seems way out of proportions as the block is probably quite small.

I’m just new to Harleys, but enjoying the learning curve…

Quote:

Originally Posted by fin_676

Breaker bar is a long bar with a square drive 0n a pin mounting allowing you to adjust the angle you are pulling from
normal length would be about 24" great tool for easing off tight fastners one of the best investments ive ever made

Brian

Thanks guys! Just returned from running a few errands on the bike since it's supposed to be a rainy weekend. Last stop was Lowes to get myself a breaker bar. Learn something new every day!

biscuit · Nov 20th, 2009, 07:50 PM

Just be careful.I think there is a "left" hand thread in there somewhere.The biggest breaker bar in the world wont undo that if you're turnin' the wrong way!

glider · Nov 20th, 2009, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by biscuit

Just be careful.I think there is a "left" hand thread in there somewhere.The biggest breaker bar in the world wont undo that if you're turnin' the wrong way!

That would be on the clutch

Mavagrand · Nov 21st, 2009, 06:15 PM

OK. Got the bike back...the compensator upgrade is indeed worthy of all the hype. The starter knock...gone, I mean completely eliminated. The bike even seems to start quicker, although that could be in my head. Furthermore, there is a lot less drive chain noise at highway speed. Prior to this I had an annoying swooshing sound that drove me nuts. IT sounded like the front brake was rubbing. I checked everything and had just decided to live with it...that is gone as well. The bike sounds completely different. She also changes gears easier and quieter, don't know why but it does. Anyway, this was well worth it, I am happy with the mod. If you can, get it done, you won't regret it.

Nov 19th, 2009, 10:30 AM	#21
RetiredJake Community Star Ride: FLHTCU Join Date: Apr 19th, 2009 Location: Middle Tennessee Posts: 595 My Mood:	I'm confused about something. Why do you have to remove the rotor? I have looked at the manual for my '08 Dyna, and it seems to me the rotor is behind the compensator and you should be able to replace it without removing the rotor. What am I missing? They say that ignorance is bliss, I guess I'm one happy guy. Went back and looked a little closer and answered my own question. __________________ Roaming the country, Tasting the wine, Having fun, Life is good Last edited by NEWHD74FAN; Nov 20th, 2009 at 10:09 PM. Reason: Merge Posts

Nov 19th, 2009, 04:10 PM	#23
Dr. Doolittle Contributor$ Ride: 2008 Street Glide Join Date: Feb 1st, 2008 Location: Woodstock, Georgia Posts: 3,865 My Mood:	Re: Compensator Upgrade Update OK, the more I review this and other related threads, the more I'm convinced this is something I want to do. I've read through the section in my service manual that talks about removing and installing the drive components and I have a couple questions. These might be answered in the instructions that come with the new compensator but I don't have those yet. 1. "Using a breaker bar, rotate compensating sprocket bolt in direction shown to remove." What exactly is a breaker bar? Is it a specific tool or an extension you put on your handle to increase leverage? 2. Can anyone explain what the picture is below every figure displaying the opened primary? Looks like a set of stairs with the international symbol for "NO" over it. Don't work on your bike while it's on the stairs? I really hadn't planned on trying that one! __________________ 2008 Street Glide

Nov 20th, 2009, 01:48 AM	#24
PigSnot Contributor$ Ride: 07 FLHR Join Date: Jun 15th, 2009 Location: GTA (Greater Toronto Area) Ontario, Canada Posts: 93 My Mood:	Re: Compensator Upgrade Update The instructions are available for download from HD site: http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US...ts/-J04825.pdf 1. I think the breaker bar is the handle/lever that comes with socket sets with just the drive stub, without the ratchet head, so that more pressure can be applied without fear of wrecking the ratchet gears. Can be purchased separate. If needed, I would slip a pipe extension for added leverage over this, but not on a ratchet. 2. Again, my understanding, the ‘no set of stairs’ used to be the locking tool of previous years and models. Placed near the top of the sprocket and underneath the chain (1 o’clock position) it would stop the chain from moving. Seems it caused uneven stretching of the chain, and thus an issue. Now the drive locking tool is made from flat bar operating on the sprockets. The way the primary and 'no stairs' displays seems way out of proportions as the block is probably quite small. I’m just new to Harleys, but enjoying the learning curve…

Nov 20th, 2009, 07:50 PM	#28
biscuit Contributor$ Ride: 2008 softail deluxe Join Date: Aug 25th, 2007 Location: Brisbane Queensland AUSTRALIA Posts: 325	Re: Compensator Upgrade Update Just be careful.I think there is a "left" hand thread in there somewhere.The biggest breaker bar in the world wont undo that if you're turnin' the wrong way!

Nov 21st, 2009, 06:15 PM	#30
Mavagrand Community Star Ride: 2008 Electra Glide Classic Join Date: Aug 19th, 2007 Location: Central Florida Posts: 382 My Mood:	Re: Compensator Upgrade Update OK. Got the bike back...the compensator upgrade is indeed worthy of all the hype. The starter knock...gone, I mean completely eliminated. The bike even seems to start quicker, although that could be in my head. Furthermore, there is a lot less drive chain noise at highway speed. Prior to this I had an annoying swooshing sound that drove me nuts. IT sounded like the front brake was rubbing. I checked everything and had just decided to live with it...that is gone as well. The bike sounds completely different. She also changes gears easier and quieter, don't know why but it does. Anyway, this was well worth it, I am happy with the mod. If you can, get it done, you won't regret it.

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Compensator Upgrade Update

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