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Considering 95 buildEngine and Fuel |
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#1 (permalink) |
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New Family
Ride: 2005 Electra Glide Classic
Join Date: 2008, Jul 28
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 4
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Considering 95 build
Ok, I'm considering doing a 95" Big Bore Stage II kit (of SE flavor) with 204 cams.
I know there's other solutions out there, but I'm having a hard time weeding my way through them. As we all know, opinions are like poop holes and everyone's got one and they're all different. Here's what I'm looking at: 1) I've got an '05 EG Classic with 20k on the odometer, stock TC88 with Stage I A/C, SERT & Rinehart TD's. 2) I'm looking for more low end and midrange torque. Roll on power at 50+ MPH 3) I'd like a solution that doesn't destroy my fuel economy or my wallet. 4) I know I can pick up a SE Stage II Big Bore kit w/ cams (29775-02B) for around $625. 5) I don't have the time for nor, am I interested in doing the build myself at this time. I've built automotive motors before, but they have been for my "extra" toys. I don't consider this an extra toy. I've got a 70+ mile round trip each day to work, so I ride the bike out of necessity as well as for pleasure. 6) Most of my riding is solo, since we just purchased the wife a Nightster. Although from time to time, we will ride 2 up. 7) I'm not the smallest guy in the world so a little extra something would be beneficial, besides, torque is fun. Also, should I lose the chain driven cams? I don't think SE has any solution for gear driven, if I'm not mistaken. I know if I keep the chain driven, then I should at least replace the tensioners. How about the push rods? Should they be replaced? SE or some other brand? How about adjustables? Oil pump, required, not required, brands? I know head work is always a good idea, but being that this is a budget build (for the time being) the head work may be out of the wallet's reach. Advice, opinions, solutions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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New Family
Ride: 06 Dyna Lowrider
Join Date: 2008, Jul 27
Posts: 8
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Re: Considering 95 build
you will also need to change your cam shoe tenisors as well... if you have a dealer you trust go talk to them,go to more than 1... the 204 cam is not 1 you want... and also you can see what hillside/gmr or hq suggest
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#3 (permalink) |
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Play The Throttle
Ride: 1981 FLH Shovel
Join Date: 2008, Apr 21
Location: Maryland
Posts: 347
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Re: Considering 95 build
The 204 cam is way underrated.It will work well for what he wants.The power will be strong from just off idle to 5500 and will perform well with pump gas and a heavy bike.I know the book says it is higher rpm but the Harley ad department version of high rpm is different from the real world.Designed to work with stock pushrods,valve springs,stock ports and cam chain set up it's a nice bolt in deal.Just check the cam chain tensioners every 30 K or so.You will need a new map to get the most from this but that's what's nice about the race tuner.Just write a new map.I say go for it.
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Go out on a limb,that's where the fruit is anyway......... |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Community Liaison
Ride: 07 Road King Classic
Join Date: 2007, Jun 21
Posts: 10,146
My Mood:
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Re: Considering 95 build
The 204 cam is a good choice as well as the 203 for a lower power band too. As far as the chain tensioners, you can update to the roller chain conversion available in the newer models and eliminate the problematic area. Take a look here.
Roller Chain Conversion - Harley Davidson Community
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