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Stator Replacement

Electrical and Lighting Systems

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Published by glider (Community Liaison)
Published date: Mar 21st, 2008

Here's a stator replacement that came from another source that will give you an idea of how to do it on a TC engine with some improvised tools also.

ALSO check this post for more info on the 06 bikes...
06 dyna Rotor-Stator - Harley Davidson Community

There is also some extra steps here because the shift shaft seal was being replaced as well.

It's also advisable to have the factory manual available for your particular application.


Took off the left side boards and shifters and drained the primary.


Removed all the screws and pulled the whole outer primary cover. You can see the HB-125 Auto Chain Tensioner.....


Removed the tensioner. The backplate for the tensioner can stay.


The dealer wanted almost $40 for a piece of plastic called the primary chain locking tool. Read somewhere else that a chunk or two of a cutting board works just as well. So to Walmart I went. $4 later I had a new cutting board. Traded it with my wife for an old one.....


Cut three strips 1 1/4 inch wide, and screwed them together in step fashion to come up with my ($4!!) version.....


From the manual, HD's version of the tool.....


Breaker bar with 1 1/2 socket on the compensating nut, the locking tool in place. Added a pipe over the bar for leverage, and it came loose easier than I had read it might. Normal lefty loosy, righty tighty for this one.....


Compensating sprocket has to come off...


I used retaining ring pliers to remove the retaining ring on the clutch basket. Follow the manual's strong warning to wear goggles for eye protection.


Time to put the breaker bar with 1 3/16 inch socket on the clutch main nut. This one is reverse threaded, righty loosy. The locking tool is now on the upper right under the primary chain.


Removed the adjuster nut and screw along with the plate. Then I pulled out the sprocket, chain, and clutch basket, just like the manual said. Here are all the primary contents.....


Just the Inner Primary left on the bike now.....


Removed the Starter jack shaft nut, and pulled out the jack shaft screw and sleeve.....


Went to the right side of the bike and removed the two screws securing the starter. They go into the backside of the inner primary case, this was done because the shifter shaft seal was also getting replaced at this time. Back to the left side. Removed the two front bolts, and then loosened the locking tabs on the five inside bolts that hold the inner primary to the motor and trans. Removed them, and then pulled off the inner primary.

Next will be the removal of the rotor over the stator. There is a special HD tool just for that. I've got a plan, and we'll see if it works.


I read where someone did it using a wheel puller. So while at Sears picking up a couple of other items, I found this for $20. Probably could have got one for a little less at Auto Zone or similar, but I wanted something solid.



BTW, here is a picture of the HD tool in the manual.


Needed a couple of small blocks of wood to get the puller frame up over the shaft, This is one of the improvised tools mentioned.


Put a little tape over the shaft for protection. Don't want to damage any of the little splines.


Bought two 3 inch 5/16 bolts to attach through the puller/wood into the threaded screw holes in the rotor.


Inserted the main threaded rod and put the socket wrench on.


Turned the wrench for a little, and presto, it came right off. Not much force needed at all with this setup.


And behind the rotor, my problem, a fried stator. Was glad to see it actually. Assumed, but couldn't confirm, that this was in fact my electrical problem until I saw the stator.


Removed the 4 screws, snipped the wires outside the primary, pulled the the wires and rubber plug/stopper thing back through the wire hole, and pulled out the stator. One last pic of the culprit.


Here is the old leaking seal.....


Drilled two small holes in the old seal.....


Decided to make a mini puller. Bought a small metal plate and drilled and tapped a bolt hole, and drilled 2 small holes. Here it is.


Attached to the seal with the 2 sheet metal screws.....


Tightend the nut, and the seal pulled right out!.....


The shifter shaft with the seal removed.....


Cleaned around the shaft opening real careful like, and pushed the new Cometic seal on.


Cleaned up the rest of the area and case, and put the washer and lock ring on the shift shaft.


Put the new stator in. Had to push the wire assembly through the hole, and then pull the wire from the outside until the rubber seal came through and "set". The stator went right into position on the shaft, and I used new screws like the manual said. Used the small torque wrench, and tightened her down to 70 inch pounds.


Put the HB-125 tensioner back in.


Adjusted the clutch and cleaned the gasket edge real good. Put the outer primary (chrome cover) over a new gasket, and torqued it down.


Put the chain inspection cover with a new gasket on and torqued it down. I am going to drain the primary, put new fluid in after a few miles and put the new gasket on.
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Old Oct 14th, 2008, 02:28 PM     #1
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Re: Stator Replacement

Awesome step by step instructions. I have to do that exact same job and was thinking about making my own tools too. Thanks for info. A quick question? How bad was your leak at the shifter shaft? I have a fairly bad leak and wondered if its in the same place. I was sure it was primary in O ring on motor but not so sure now? Either way I have to strip her down to fix stator so I will check then. Thanks again for great info.
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Old Oct 14th, 2008, 03:10 PM     #2
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Re: Stator Replacement

ANY leak at the shifter shaft should be dealt with while the inner primary is off. I would even replace it if it weren't leaking just because it has to come all apart to do it again if it leaks later on as long as there are some miles on it.
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Old Oct 28th, 2008, 12:55 AM     #3
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Re: Stator Replacement

After going this far how much trouble is it to replace the tranny seals if possible without pulling the trans. Ive got a leak in there somewhere that ended up saturating the starter armature and solinoid to the point it would not turn over. That could only get to the starter through the jack shaft as far as I can tell. Anybody out there have any other ideas.
Took the starter and solinoid apart,cleaned them up,starts like it did when new. I know the tranny is leaking as I put some coloring in the oil and that is what is coming out by the rear of the primary case.

Last edited by KIT CUSTOM; Oct 28th, 2008 at 12:57 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Dec 28th, 2008, 10:05 AM     #4
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Re: Stator Replacement

Many thanks for answer on shifter shaft seal. Home made seal puller is awesome idea. Thanks again!
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Old Dec 28th, 2008, 11:48 AM     #5
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Re: Stator Replacement

Glad to help, just make sure you are up for the rest of the work to get to the seal.
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Old Mar 28th, 2009, 08:08 PM     #6
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Re: Stator Replacement

Great info here!!..wondering what or why the stator goes south?..How would you know of a problem coming?..Can you do preventive measures before it happens?..Thanks to all
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Old Mar 28th, 2009, 10:19 PM     #7
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Re: Stator Replacement

A few things could cause the stator to go bad. Bad wiring, ground on the wiring on touring bikes under the regulator, bad regulator, bad battery or weak battery causing an overworked stator and there are others too. No way usually of telling till they go out unless you notice low lights or volt gauge lower than normal.
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Old Mar 29th, 2009, 06:38 PM     #8
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Re: Stator Replacement

Just wondering, if you only wanted to get to the sifter shaft seal or replace shift lever, is it possible to open tranny, remove shift drum, shifter shaft and get it that way? I have yet to be into tranny, so don't know if that is even possible.
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Old Mar 29th, 2009, 06:45 PM     #9
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Re: Stator Replacement

Best to go in from the primary side, it's straight forward that way.
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