Stage 1 Dyno Results

smitty901

bit confused .
Mod for Mod the TC96 A will all ways have a bit more power than the TC96B
The system used to balance the engine robs some power.
Dyno is on as good as the person running it.
Was yours done at the same shop?
From what I read your saying that after the mods and dyno time his puts out less or the same as a stock engine. If thats the case something is not right.
A proper stage 1 and adding some fuel correctly will give you numbers something like what you got.

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dolt

Not trying to stir the pot but perhaps Bud has been looking at the MoCo's own dyno charts. However, it is not as simple as the Bs vs the As. Like I posted previously, the Dynas (B engine) and the Softails (A engine) do not perform as well as the touring models (B engine). The parasitic loss to the B balancers is negligible.

As you know, the TC heads were much improved in '06, particularly the exhaust side. The touring bike exhaust system takes full advantage of the improved head flow; that's where the increased preformance comes from.

Now, you can discount the MoCo figures if you want but I think the dyno will bear them out. I would never turn my bike over to a tuner without a baseline run; you need to know where you started.

The numbers for the FL that you posted for your friend are low for an FL model in stock trim, much less a Stage I upgrade. There is something in the mix that we don't know or there is something wrong with the bike. His numbers are lower than the numbers the MoCo dyno shows for an FL in stock trim.

I don't know how to post the dyno charts or I would include them in the post. The charts do not show a Stage I Dyna/Softail performng as well as a Stage I FL model but I am sure the upgrades used all MoCo parts. An A engine can perform as well as a B engine with the right Stage I compenents.

JHMO

Bud White

ya got um swapped B is softtail and A is touring /dyna type .. and yes the touring motor has more power than a dyna motor .. and yes mocos own charts is what im looking at for baseline

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dolt

Thanks, my bad; I fixed it.

Fatboy 07

Smitty/Dolt/Bud, thanks for your replys. Yes Smitty, the work and dyno on bike (the 07 Fatboy) was done at the same shop. This guy is a well respected indy that worked at the local HD shop until it changed hands a few years ago and then he opened his own shop.

He is not sure why the numbers are lower with the Stage 1 upgrade than stock either. He said he has had one other bike that did the same some time back. Oh, by the way, he normally does not do a baseline unless the customer request same, due the the additional cost. He only charges around $150 to $200 for the dyno tune, whereas the local HD shop charges $450 for dynoing the race tuner.

Thanks again you guys, I appreciate you taking the time to respond. I kinda think it my be a lemon of sorts!!

Roger

glider

Generally when the numbers are lower than normal on a TC engine and especially after the stages are done, you would suspect the engine to be sumping and an oil pump alignment could be in order.

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Fatboy 07

Thanks Glider, I knew you would come up with some kind of idea that I can take back to my friend to check on. Since this thread has 340 views and only about 10 - 15 responses, that kinda tells me this is not a normal occurance.

Thanks again, your the best!

Roger

glider

It's not a VERY common thing but it does happen a bit. When the oil pump is out of alignment, the oil backs up in the engine sump and the crank beats the oil to death and robs power from the engine.
The way to check it is to carefully heat the plug in the bottom of the case and remove it, they have red locktite on them. You shouldn't get more than about 4-5 ounces at the most out of the engine. Any more than that, either check or align the pump.

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dolt

Sumping could be the problem but you don't usually see it on an engine where the cam chest has not been opened but if the bike has alwasy run poorly since purchased, it could have left the factory with a defect.

Another sure indication of sumping is oil temps. If the oil gets hot fast that is a strong indication of sumping. When checking, check hot after running for a while; you want to know how much oil is in the crankcase shortly after shut off before more drains down. Also, being hot, the crankcase plug is more easily removed but, as glider pointed out, be careful removing the plug.

Oil pump alignment could be the problem but I have also seen o-rings that were pinched, left out or wrong o-ring where the oil pump nipple inserts into the scavenge port. On new builds, I don't use the o-ring specified for this location. The combination of the top (yellow viton) pushrod tube o-ring in the scavenge port and the oil drain plug o-ring stretched to fit over the pump nipple, will insure a tight seal at the scavenge port. If the cam chest is opened up, be sure and check the seal at the scavenge port.

I have seen oil temps hit 270* after 15-20 miles of normal riding and when the crankcase plug was pulled 20-24 ounces of oil drain out. It is like you trying to run in water up to your waist and will rob power.

I would still run a compression check first to verify the viability of the top end. The test is non-intrusive and takes 15 minutes.

Fatboy 07

Thanks alot dolt/Glider, you guys are great. It is a real pleasure to be a member of a forum with so many knowledgeable folks. I will pass both of your responses on to my friend and he can take it from there.

This is a new bike with very low miles, so whatever the problem, it came from the factory with this same condition. I only wish he had requested a baseline prior to installing all the stage 1 components.

Thanks again guys!!

Roger