06 dyna Rotor-Stator

DynaBike

My '07 FXDC doesn't have this problem... Is there a recommendation to prevent this from ever occurring that doesn't cost a fortune ? Have the bolts welded or replace one part before the whole thing is in pieces ? Would be nice to avoid if possible.

Actually, is there a way to even tell by vin if it's a concern ?

cdn-bigfoot

This problem is specific to the 2006 model year.
2007 model should have the upgraded welded rotor.
But just so I don't get myself sued, check with your dealer.

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HD4DP

I found that I also need to replace the IPB at this time. I love this 2006 Dyna!!

porkchop

I love mine too! How sweet they are. I realy enjoy fixing all the factory defects myself at my cost. Dont you????

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QehQeh

Hello All:
I'm new to this forum - found it doing a Google search for info on the stator/rotor problem. This forum’s posts regarding this topic have been the most informative I've found – THANK YOU! Bear with me with my long post, I have a reason. A couple of weeks ago after an hour ride and a two hour stop, I start the bike and hear a soft clacking/clanking noise coming from somewhere in the front part of the engine. The noise stopped after the engine warmed up so I ignored it. Last week I rode the bike to work and same thing, after warm-up the noise goes away, but on my return home, the noise stayed until suddenly "Ping! Whurrrr" then I noticed the original noise was gone! 30 seconds later, the check engine lights went on. You all know what the problem was. The bike was running fine so I decided to just take it easy and try and make it home. The point I'd like to share is – TRUST YOUR EARS - I should have stopped riding the bike after I FIRST noticed the sound. Luckily, after removing the outer primary cover, I don't believe (at this point) there is any damage to anything but the rotor and stator, judging from the VERY small amount of metal shavings found.
I have a couple of questions: I haven’t gotten past removing the outer primary cover and verifying the problem (rotor is loose and rotates freely on the shaft). I suppose I’ll find out after I remove the comp sprocket/chain/clutch assembly, but why do you have to remove the inner primary cover to take off the rotor and stator?
Next question is: I read on another forum that there are after-market stators and rotors that are better made and possibly less expensive than the HD replacements. Is this the way to go, or should I stick with the new HD parts?
Thanks for any advise.

GREAT FORUM!

K.K.

cdn-bigfoot

If the rotor rotates freely on the shaft that means all 8 bolts have vacated the rotor. The outer body of the rotor (with the magnets) is bolted to the inner center part with the 8 bolts (on a 2006 only). The inner part is pressed onto a shafts splines (teeth). Your entire Rotor needs to slide off the shaft and then the Stator removed. If unsure of the procedure you'd best get a shop manual if you plan on doing this yourself. But if you are mechanical it is pretty straight forward. Some have experienced difficulty getting the pressed on piece off the shaft, other slide it off easily.

Accel make the best of the aftermarket electrics. The HD parts are redesigned from original and should be better than what you got with the bike.

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QehQeh

Hi Bigfoot:
Thanks much for the advise. Yes, a shop manual (I have) is a must for this job. Would you recommend the Accel parts over the redesigned HD parts?

Thanks again,
QehQeh

cdn-bigfoot

I have no direct comparison of Accel to HD.
Either would be good quality parts.

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rjsogard

Hi all well i just got bike back and here is the mess they gave me if i didnt have ESP i would have to pay $1242.22 i hope the pics show up.

Attached Thumbnails

         

glider

Nice mess in the rotor, looks like pasta!

I'd say it was bad!

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