pre -79 clutch adjustment

Kiwi Patriot · Sep 29th, 2009, 10:45 PM

I've got an old 4 speed transmission with an open primary on an Evo trike.
I was told that the correct clutch adjustment was to wind the adjuster in until the lever was 31/32 of an inch away from the topknot or cowpie. Then adjust the cable until it brought the lever back to the same spot.
I've done this, but when I put the bike into gear, it really grabs and pulls the bike forward. This really isn't good at the lights when I can't get the bike into neutral,(which is impossible at a standstill).
What am I doing wrong?
I cannot find any information on the correct adjusting.

STEVE07 · Sep 29th, 2009, 10:52 PM

Here is a couple links that could help you out.
Clutch Adjustment Video - Harley Davidson Community

Clutch Adjustment By The Book - Harley Davidson Community

Easy Clutch Adjustment Method - Harley Davidson Community

All there in the self help forums.

Kiwi Patriot · Sep 29th, 2009, 11:24 PM

Cheers, Am I wrong in thinking these are all for late model cluches.
Also forgot to mention it is kickstart (only).

TQuentin1 · Sep 30th, 2009, 09:18 AM

Not sure how "pre" you meant in "pre-'79", but here is the section from the '66-'84 manual (Shovel).

TQ

SledDog · Sep 30th, 2009, 10:05 AM

Just a couple of questions for ya...

Is your pressure plate OEM stock? Or is it a aluminum "domed" style. The reason I ask is it makes a difference and how you set the measurement for the spring tension on the pressure plate.

When you have it in gear and the clutch pulled in, does it "walk" or is it grabbing hard and dragging the engine idle speed down?

Did you replace any clutch components? Or was this just routine manintenance?

You say you can't get into neutral at a stand still, I'm assuming that with the engine running. Have you tried rev'ing the motor and then trying to get neutral? It could be a pressure plate adjustment, or warped steel plates.

We need as much info as possible, pictures would be good also.

There are a couple of ways to get most of the walk/grab out of a shovelhead's clutch system. But, unless you replace the clutch basket, you may not get it all out.

First way is to make sure you have the correct clutch spring to pressure plate measurement. Shovelhead's tend to walk when the basket wobbles.

You can use the baseline pressure plate to spring retainer measurement, then set the nuts to different measurements to adjust for the wobble or steel plate warp.

The other way to adjust the clutch arm and cable. It may not match the spec. but that's ok. Many Shovels were "hand fitted" at the factory during the AMF era.

If doing these adjustments doesn't fix it, you could have a problem with the fork that actuates the clutch pushrod. It's on page 45, picture #126, item B, in TQuentin1's .pdf file.

I've seen these forks crack. And when you pull the clutch level the fork opens at the crack and does not fully release the clutch.

The thing is to try the adjustments per the book, than you will have to fiddle with 'em a bit. The main goal is to set the adjustment so the clutch does not drag, and it is not slipping. Every Shovelhead is different. That's because Harley gave them a soul. They are individuals, no 2 are alike...

Post what info you can. I'm sure we can get adjusted. I've spent many a night over many beers doing what you are attempting to do. It's just a learning curve, you'll get it. Call bonding it with your bike...

Sep 29th, 2009, 10:52 PM	#2
STEVE07 Moderators Ride: 2007FLHTC Join Date: Oct 4th, 2008 Location: Kitchener Ontario Canada Posts: 3,577 My Mood:	Re: pre -79 clutch adjustment Here is a couple links that could help you out. Clutch Adjustment Video - Harley Davidson Community Clutch Adjustment By The Book - Harley Davidson Community Easy Clutch Adjustment Method - Harley Davidson Community All there in the self help forums. __________________ Please stop by the "self help section" for maintenance tips, diagnostic codes and much more. click me!>>Self Help Information and Tips<< click me!

Sep 29th, 2009, 11:24 PM	#3
Kiwi Patriot New Family Ride: 1991 Fatboy Custom Trike Join Date: Sep 29th, 2009 Location: Auckland New Zealand Posts: 2	Re: pre -79 clutch adjustment Cheers, Am I wrong in thinking these are all for late model cluches. Also forgot to mention it is kickstart (only).

Sep 30th, 2009, 10:05 AM	#5
SledDog Community Star Ride: 1994 Road King FLHR Join Date: Jun 21st, 2008 Location: The Land of Year Round Riding! Posts: 493 My Mood:	Re: pre -79 clutch adjustment Just a couple of questions for ya... Is your pressure plate OEM stock? Or is it a aluminum "domed" style. The reason I ask is it makes a difference and how you set the measurement for the spring tension on the pressure plate. When you have it in gear and the clutch pulled in, does it "walk" or is it grabbing hard and dragging the engine idle speed down? Did you replace any clutch components? Or was this just routine manintenance? You say you can't get into neutral at a stand still, I'm assuming that with the engine running. Have you tried rev'ing the motor and then trying to get neutral? It could be a pressure plate adjustment, or warped steel plates. We need as much info as possible, pictures would be good also. There are a couple of ways to get most of the walk/grab out of a shovelhead's clutch system. But, unless you replace the clutch basket, you may not get it all out. First way is to make sure you have the correct clutch spring to pressure plate measurement. Shovelhead's tend to walk when the basket wobbles. You can use the baseline pressure plate to spring retainer measurement, then set the nuts to different measurements to adjust for the wobble or steel plate warp. The other way to adjust the clutch arm and cable. It may not match the spec. but that's ok. Many Shovels were "hand fitted" at the factory during the AMF era. If doing these adjustments doesn't fix it, you could have a problem with the fork that actuates the clutch pushrod. It's on page 45, picture #126, item B, in TQuentin1's .pdf file. I've seen these forks crack. And when you pull the clutch level the fork opens at the crack and does not fully release the clutch. The thing is to try the adjustments per the book, than you will have to fiddle with 'em a bit. The main goal is to set the adjustment so the clutch does not drag, and it is not slipping. Every Shovelhead is different. That's because Harley gave them a soul. They are individuals, no 2 are alike... Post what info you can. I'm sure we can get adjusted. I've spent many a night over many beers doing what you are attempting to do. It's just a learning curve, you'll get it. Call bonding it with your bike... __________________ 77 FXE "Shaker", 94 FLHR "Primitive Man", 96 FXD "Miss Low" My Newest "Harley", MV Agusta F4 1000 S (05), 2009 Ducati Streetfighter S Track Day Bike: 2000 Ducati 996 SPS

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Sep 29th, 2009, 10:45 PM	#1
Kiwi Patriot New Family Ride: 1991 Fatboy Custom Trike Join Date: Sep 29th, 2009 Location: Auckland New Zealand Posts: 2	pre -79 clutch adjustment I've got an old 4 speed transmission with an open primary on an Evo trike. I was told that the correct clutch adjustment was to wind the adjuster in until the lever was 31/32 of an inch away from the topknot or cowpie. Then adjust the cable until it brought the lever back to the same spot. I've done this, but when I put the bike into gear, it really grabs and pulls the bike forward. This really isn't good at the lights when I can't get the bike into neutral,(which is impossible at a standstill). What am I doing wrong? I cannot find any information on the correct adjusting.

pre -79 clutch adjustment

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