77 shovel needs something

vasti5429

well I fixed the advance mechanism , by the way thanks for suggesting it, back plate was getting it stuck open .
now she runs pretty smooth . just no power and to the next issue .
I know its a 1200 don't know what it has for pistons but I can kick start her real easy not much compression fires rite up , I have a fat boy pushing almost 100 horses .which it doesn't help it feels like the shovel doesn't move , still think she should have a little more
.
I can't get her to idle that well , when she's cold choke all open she fires rite up engine racing , when she warms up idle is too high so I lower it and seems ok . at the next stop light she wants to stall because idle is too low . played with mixture screw and get it to sound pretty good just doesn't hold . has a s&s super e carb looks pretty clean. I took it apart and cleaned every jet and hole ,
gaskets and rings don't look bad. friend of mine suggested to tear the motor and stroke it to at least 80 inches , which I might just do over the winter , motor sounds so good and smooth , just think she should run a better.

maine-e-axe

Check for intake leak or fuel filter/ screen clogged and fresh gas.

SledDog

Tell me more about the carb... Super B, Super E? Do you know the model of it? Sometimes owners put the wrong S&S carb on the bike, and this could be the problem.

So you say it appears to have low compression because of the way it kickstarts. Well, that my not be the case. The kickers are designed to be easy, BUT if you do not stroke the kicker all the way to the bottom of its travel, it may kick back on you. That may throw you over the bike, or tear up a knee..

The stalling may be because of an intake leak. Does it have rubber band style intake seals, or the or style solid clamps? If it has the solid clamps, the o-ring may be pinched or bad. Change it over to the newer style rubber band set up.

Are you running un-muffled straight pipes? If so you may need a little bit of back press. Do this test..

Start it, warm it up and whe then the idle drops, place a screw driver vertically across both ends of the exhaust pipes (use 2 screw drivers, if needed). This gives you some back pressure and may help it idle better.

Also, do a compression test. How many miles on the bike? When was the last top end done on it? Shovels need a top end about every 20,000 to 30,000 miles.

If the motor races when you enrichen it when starting, you carb has a passage clogged or you have an intake leak. Also, does the carb have an intake spacer? The spacer may have a vacuum port that is leaking.

More info please. Pictures would be good also....

__________________
77 FXE "Shaker", 94 FLHR "Primitive Man", 96 FXD "Miss Low"
My Newest "Harley", MV Agusta F4 1000 S (05), 2009 Ducati Streetfighter S
Track Day Bike: 2000 Ducati 996 SPS

H-D Pilot

Like was said above, make sure there are no intake air leaks, then follow S&S's tuning steps.

1-Verify carburetor is set to stock settings:
A. Idle Mixture Screw, 1 1/4 turns from lightly seated
B. Idle Speed Screw, ½ turn clockwise from engagement point
C. Accelerator Adjustment Screw, 2 turns counterclockwise from seated
1. Start bike, bring to operating temperature. Close enrichener as quickly as possible.
2. Set Idle Speed Adjusting Screw, clockwise to increase rpm, counter-clockwise to decrease rpm
3. Adjust air/fuel mixture by turning Idle Mixture Screw slowly clockwise until the engine runs poorly. Slowly turn the screw counter-clockwise until it runs smoothly—if you go too far the engine will start to stumble.
4. With engine idling, turn Accelerator Adjustment Screw clockwise until it lightly seats. Snap throttle open—engine should stumble. Turn screw counter-clockwise ¼ or ½ of a turn at a time, until engine responds to throttle twist with smooth, quick response.
5. Ride motorcycle in various RPM ranges, and then try to maintain a consistent 40- to 50-mph. If the engine is popping or sneezing in the air cleaner it can indicate a lean condition. If you notice stumbling or sputtering it can indicate a rich condition
6. Replace Intermediate Jet as necessary—smaller is leaner, larger is richer. Adjust Idle Mixture Screw and Idle Speed Screw as required.
7.To test the Main Jet, do a high gear roll-on from 50-mph to 70-mph. If the engine back fires or breaks up in the carb, increase the Main Jet size .004”. If the engine is flat or will not accelerate, decrease the Main Jet by .004”.
8. After changing the jets, test ride the motorcycle. Continue re-jetting and adjustmenting until optimum performance is achieved.

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vasti5429

not sure if I attached the pictures correct .it has a super E dont know which model but i will look . don't remember what size jets but I looked it up and it the size were what was recommended . if I remember one was .072 . it has rubber bands type seal type , I sprayed carb cleaner everywhere as it runs to see if I could notice a leak , I didn't , but I will again . she will idle nice, if you if you mess with the screw and not ride it . once you ride her she changes changes . just sitting in the garage she sounds very nice. it has straight pipes no baffles pipes are long than the bent up like a 45 degree iu dont know if that would create some back pressure , someone has mention to put some baffles in . I work in a machine shop I can easily make some , just to give it a little bit of back pressure .will also do a compression check tomorrow and see what it has , i will post the result thanks again.