If you have some mechanical aptitude, and can use hand tools,we'll try this together. If carbed I am assuming you have the original CV carb or a Mikuni but if it is an S&S with a butterfly it will be the same process.
This is only a guideline and a service manual will prove very handy if you should run into problems not covered here
Tools you will need:
Very thin long blade screwdriver
Allen key set or torx kit depending on whose controls you have on your bars, make sure if it is a torx that it is a #27 not #25 which will strip it, the #27 usually does not come in a kit.
A small set of open end wrenches—American sizes
Needle nose pliers and LONG tweezers in case you drop a ferrel in the control housing
A tube of grip adhesive
Cable lube ( while you are in there )
Let’s start with the left hand grip first unless you have grips with a pattern on them such as the Kuryakin ISO grips. If your grips have a pattern you will need to do the throttle grip first so you can line up the pattern with the left grip:
1-Assume that you may destroy the left grip to get it off., unless you wish to save it, then you would spray gumout carb cleaner under the edge and work it off with the long screwdriver. The gum out disolves the glue used to fasten it. Some grips are more heavily glued to the bar than others. First give it a good twist by hand to see if it will break its grip with the glue. If not, and you have access to an air compressor, you can try to blow air between the grip and the bar to try to break it loose, this usually works well.
In order to remove it easily you will need to cut the absolute end of the grip ‘cap’ off in order to gain access to remove the rest of the grip. To cut off the end, squeeze along the grip from the control covers back toward the end. You should be able to feel where the end of the handlebar is in relation to the end of the grip.
2-When you have determined where the end is, use the small hacksaw to cut off the ‘cap’ end of the grip. Don’t worry if you get too close to the bar and nick it—it won’t make any difference and will not be seen. The idea is to gain access to the adhesive between the grip and the bar. You can also use the gumout proceedure here.
3- Remove the screws from the left control covers and the 2 halves of the switch ‘pod’ will separate. At this point examine the inside of the end of the shell of each half and you will see if there is a recess in the switch pod halves that will capture the end of the new grip and physically capture and cover a small portion of the end of the grip, mainly for cosmetic purposes. If there is no capture area (recess) in the ends of the switch pod halves just butt the grip against the switch pod. This is fyi for re-installation later.
4- Going through the end of the grip where you cut off the end of the grip push the or the long thin screwdriver between the grip and the handlebar, and go all the way around the grip. The idea is to release the glue holding the grip in place to allow you to twist the grip and pull it off the bar, this is where the spray of gumout helps.
5- Got the old grip in your hand now? Good—use the course emery cloth (or whatever you have on hand) to try to remove as much of the old glue as possible from the bar in the location where the new grip will go. Laquer thinners also does a good job. You do not have to remove every bit of the old glue, but clean the bar as best you can in order for the new glue to stick the new grip to the bar.
6- Using grip adhesive place enough inside the new grip to ensure that when you twist the new grip into position, the adhesive will reasonably cover the bar. You can spread a little glue on the bar as well. Don’t overdo it or you will have excess glue to clean up. Better to have not quite enough than too much, as all you want to do is make sure the grip is stuck well to the bar, and will not twist at all when you are rolling down the road.
7-Push and twist the new grip all the way onto the bar and position the grip where you want it.
8- Re-install the two control halves together and remember to locate the recess of the switch pod halves over the new grip, if your new grips are equipped with a ‘channel’ for the control pod to cover. If there is no channel just butt the switch pod. Against the grip when you bolt it back together.
Congratulations, you have just completed the easy side.
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Now lets do the throttle grip. It’s a little tricky and may take a little longer to do than the left side. Remove the air cleaner cover and filter to gain access to the carb or FI throat if you wish. You will have to do it sooner or later anyway.
1- At the right grip the throttle and idle return cables have a rubber sheath over each one for adjustment. They are located just under the throttle grip and have a 90 degree bend where the cables then run to the frame neck before routing under the tank.
2- Roll or slide these covers back to get access to the adjusters
3- Using the small wrenches, hold the long hex adjuster on the throttle cable first (this is the one on the front wheel side of your bike) and back off the lock nut about 6 or 8 turns. Then turn the long hex adjuster toward the grip about 6 turns or so —this will put slack into the throttle cable. Don’t worry about how much slack you give it at this point—you can give it more later if needed. This is not critical at this point, just a guide.
4- Do the same for the idle return cable, but no need to give it as much slack as the throttle cable—maybe 4 or 5 turns will be enough. This is not critical just a guide.
5-Use the allen or torx keys and remove the top switch pod cover similar to what you did for the left side. SLOW DOWN now and look into the bottom switch / control pod half and take notice of how the cables route along the outside of the grip and are captured by the ferrules attached to the end of the control cables, in relationship to the notches located on the old grip. Look at your new grip and see how the notches will capture the cable ferrules when you position the new grip in place.
6-Take notice of the slack available in each cable. Twist the grip a little back and forth to see if you have enough slack to remove the ferrule out of the notch on the front side (throttle cable side) of the grip first.
7- If you think you have enough slack use the needle nose pliers carefully if you need too (you don’t want to damage the cables do you?) and remove the ferrule from the notch until the cable and ferrule are no longer captured by the grip. Don’t force it—if there is not enough slack go back to the adjusters and back them off a little more. Be careful not to drop the small ferrules down into the lower switch pods or you will need some very long tweasers to retrieve them. You do not want any bits and pieces lying in the switch pod when you put them back together for safety reasons.
8- When you have the front ferrule out of the notch, roll the grip towards the rear wheel a little, and because the front cable is off, the rear ferrule will be easily removed from the rear notch on the grip. Now make a little room under the bottom switch pod and pull the grip off the bar. No need to pull the cable guide (the 90 degree tubing) out of the bottom of the switch pod, unless you are going to change the control cables as well.
9- Go to the fridge and have a cold drink. Read the rest of this procedure while you have the beer—(oops, I mean cold drink) as you really need to understand what you will do next.
10. Clean off the old graphite / oil from the bar and re-lube it using the new graphite grease or cable lube like DRI SLIDE, you'll be glad you did, while you're at it , give the cables a lube with it where the cable goes into the sheath. (just a few drops)
11. Place the new grip onto the bar and roll the idle cable ferrule into place (the back notch on the grip). Make sure the ferrule is all the way down into the notch. Roll the front ferrule into place by twisting the grip a little forward to help access into the notch. At this point you should have both ferrules completely into both notches on the new grip, and the cables look good, are in the guides and are not twisted or damaged.
12. Re-install the switch pod covers. Next, you will adjust the throttle and idle return cables.
13. First of all just take the slack out of the throttle cable and leave the idle return cable untouched at this time. The objective is to adjust the throttle cable to a point where the throat of the carburetor is fully open. Remove the air cleaner and filter assy. Roll the throttle wide open and look either into the carb throat or the FI butterflies. The object here is to get the full pull on the carb/throttle body, then just back off a hair on the adjuster so that the cable isn't being stretched whenever you open the throttle completely, you'll get the picture when you do it.
The object is to get the carb butterfly, or FI throat to fully open when the adjustments are correct. If the air intake throat is not open fully when the throttle grip is fully open, tighten up the cable adjuster a little more until the carb or FI throat is fully opened. Do not overtighten the cable.
14.Take up the slack on the idle return cable adjuster until hand snug. Now roll the throttle fully open and see if it snaps fully closed. Do this a few times and make sure that throttle snaps closed with good action and is very positive in it’s return. Turn the front wheel side to side and recheck it.
Tighten the idle return cable adjuster locknut down onto the long hex adjuster. Recheck to make sure the throttle snaps shut in a positive manner. If you feel, see or hear a lag in the action, or the throttle does not snap shut, loosen the idle return adjuster a little at a time until the throttle snaps shut in a very positive manner. Through testing?—Not yet!
15. Sit on the bike with the wheel turned all the way left. RE Check the throttle action—you want it to snap shut again and again. Turn the wheel all the way right and do it again. Return the wheel to center and do it again. Only when you can move the front wheel lock to lock with a positive throttle return can you consider the job done. If there is any hesitation, dragging, lagging or a notchy feel in the throttle return in any position, go back to the idle cable adjuster and back it off little by little until you have positive shutoff of the throttle.
16. When you get it right slide the throttle / idle adjuster rubber covers into place and re-install the air cleaner and your done.
It is advisable to let the grip adhesive dry overnight before riding, don't want any surprises here
NOTE:
Any time the right hand grip/assembly is disassembled, care must be taken to not break the brake light switch when re assembling it. A piece of cardboard or washer like shown below should be placed in the area where the hand lever contacts the brake light switch or it could be broken upon re assembling it. You can also hold the brake lever in the squeezed position when reassembling the halves to avoid breaking the switch and carefully reassemble it.
Before removing the old handlebar control, a 1/4-inch lock washer (5/32-inch) was inserted between the brake lever and lever bracket to prevent any damage to the front brake light switch.
Linear Mode
