glider
03-21-2008, 07:06 PM
Here's a stator replacement that came from another source that will give you an idea of how to do it on a TC engine with some improvised tools also.
There is also some extra steps here because the shift shaft seal was being replaced as well.
It's also advisable to have the factory manual available for your particular application.
Took off the left side boards and shifters and drained the primary.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st1.jpg
Removed all the screws and pulled the whole outer primary cover. You can see the HB-125 Auto Chain Tensioner.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st2.jpg
Removed the tensioner. The backplate for the tensioner can stay.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st3.jpg
The dealer wanted almost $40 for a piece of plastic called the primary chain locking tool. Read somewhere else that a chunk or two of a cutting board works just as well. So to Walmart I went. $4 later I had a new cutting board. Traded it with my wife for an old one.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st4.jpg
Cut three strips 1 1/4 inch wide, and screwed them together in step fashion to come up with my ($4!!) version.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st5.jpg
From the manual, HD's version of the tool.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st6.jpg
Breaker bar with 1 1/2 socket on the compensating nut, the locking tool in place. Added a pipe over the bar for leverage, and it came loose easier than I had read it might. Normal lefty loosy, righty tighty for this one.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st7.jpg
Compensating sprocket has to come off...
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st8.jpg
I used retaining ring pliers to remove the retaining ring on the clutch basket. Follow the manual's strong warning to wear goggles for eye protection.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st9.jpg
Time to put the breaker bar with 1 3/16 inch socket on the clutch main nut. This one is reverse threaded, righty loosy. The locking tool is now on the upper right under the primary chain.
Removed the adjuster nut and screw along with the plate. Then I pulled out the sprocket, chain, and clutch basket, just like the manual said. Here are all the primary contents.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st10.jpg
Just the Inner Primary left on the bike now.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st11.jpg
Removed the Starter jack shaft nut, and pulled out the jack shaft screw and sleeve.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st12.jpg
Went to the right side of the bike and removed the two screws securing the starter. They go into the backside of the inner primary case, this was done because the shifter shaft seal was also getting replaced at this time. Back to the left side. Removed the two front bolts, and then loosened the locking tabs on the five inside bolts that hold the inner primary to the motor and trans. Removed them, and then pulled off the inner primary.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st13.jpg
Next will be the removal of the rotor over the stator. There is a special HD tool just for that. I've got a plan, and we'll see if it works.
I read where someone did it using a wheel puller. So while at Sears picking up a couple of other items, I found this for $20. Probably could have got one for a little less at Auto Zone or similar, but I wanted something solid.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st14.jpg
BTW, here is a picture of the HD tool in the manual.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st15.jpg
Needed a couple of small blocks of wood to get the puller frame up over the shaft, This is one of the improvised tools mentioned.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st16.jpg
Put a little tape over the shaft for protection. Don't want to damage any of the little splines.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st17.jpg
Bought two 3 inch 5/16 bolts to attach through the puller/wood into the threaded screw holes in the rotor.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st18.jpg
Inserted the main threaded rod and put the socket wrench on.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st19.jpg
Turned the wrench for a little, and presto, it came right off. Not much force needed at all with this setup.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st20.jpg
And behind the rotor, my problem, a fried stator. Was glad to see it actually. Assumed, but couldn't confirm, that this was in fact my electrical problem until I saw the stator.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st21.jpg
Removed the 4 screws, snipped the wires outside the primary, pulled the the wires and rubber plug/stopper thing back through the wire hole, and pulled out the stator. One last pic of the culprit.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st22.jpg
Here is the old leaking seal.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st23.jpg
Drilled two small holes in the old seal.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st24.jpg
Decided to make a mini puller. Bought a small metal plate and drilled and tapped a bolt hole, and drilled 2 small holes. Here it is.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st25.jpg
Attached to the seal with the 2 sheet metal screws.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st26.jpg
Tightend the nut, and the seal pulled right out!.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st27.jpg
The shifter shaft with the seal removed.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st28.jpg
Cleaned around the shaft opening real careful like, and pushed the new Cometic seal on.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st29.jpg
Cleaned up the rest of the area and case, and put the washer and lock ring on the shift shaft.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st30.jpg
Put the new stator in. Had to push the wire assembly through the hole, and then pull the wire from the outside until the rubber seal came through and "set". The stator went right into position on the shaft, and I used new screws like the manual said. Used the small torque wrench, and tightened her down to 70 inch pounds.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st31.jpg
Put the HB-125 tensioner back in.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st32.jpg
Adjusted the clutch and cleaned the gasket edge real good. Put the outer primary (chrome cover) over a new gasket, and torqued it down.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st33.jpg
Put the chain inspection cover with a new gasket on and torqued it down. I am going to drain the primary, put new fluid in after a few miles and put the new gasket on.
There is also some extra steps here because the shift shaft seal was being replaced as well.
It's also advisable to have the factory manual available for your particular application.
Took off the left side boards and shifters and drained the primary.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st1.jpg
Removed all the screws and pulled the whole outer primary cover. You can see the HB-125 Auto Chain Tensioner.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st2.jpg
Removed the tensioner. The backplate for the tensioner can stay.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st3.jpg
The dealer wanted almost $40 for a piece of plastic called the primary chain locking tool. Read somewhere else that a chunk or two of a cutting board works just as well. So to Walmart I went. $4 later I had a new cutting board. Traded it with my wife for an old one.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st4.jpg
Cut three strips 1 1/4 inch wide, and screwed them together in step fashion to come up with my ($4!!) version.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st5.jpg
From the manual, HD's version of the tool.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st6.jpg
Breaker bar with 1 1/2 socket on the compensating nut, the locking tool in place. Added a pipe over the bar for leverage, and it came loose easier than I had read it might. Normal lefty loosy, righty tighty for this one.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st7.jpg
Compensating sprocket has to come off...
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st8.jpg
I used retaining ring pliers to remove the retaining ring on the clutch basket. Follow the manual's strong warning to wear goggles for eye protection.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st9.jpg
Time to put the breaker bar with 1 3/16 inch socket on the clutch main nut. This one is reverse threaded, righty loosy. The locking tool is now on the upper right under the primary chain.
Removed the adjuster nut and screw along with the plate. Then I pulled out the sprocket, chain, and clutch basket, just like the manual said. Here are all the primary contents.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st10.jpg
Just the Inner Primary left on the bike now.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st11.jpg
Removed the Starter jack shaft nut, and pulled out the jack shaft screw and sleeve.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st12.jpg
Went to the right side of the bike and removed the two screws securing the starter. They go into the backside of the inner primary case, this was done because the shifter shaft seal was also getting replaced at this time. Back to the left side. Removed the two front bolts, and then loosened the locking tabs on the five inside bolts that hold the inner primary to the motor and trans. Removed them, and then pulled off the inner primary.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st13.jpg
Next will be the removal of the rotor over the stator. There is a special HD tool just for that. I've got a plan, and we'll see if it works.
I read where someone did it using a wheel puller. So while at Sears picking up a couple of other items, I found this for $20. Probably could have got one for a little less at Auto Zone or similar, but I wanted something solid.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st14.jpg
BTW, here is a picture of the HD tool in the manual.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st15.jpg
Needed a couple of small blocks of wood to get the puller frame up over the shaft, This is one of the improvised tools mentioned.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st16.jpg
Put a little tape over the shaft for protection. Don't want to damage any of the little splines.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st17.jpg
Bought two 3 inch 5/16 bolts to attach through the puller/wood into the threaded screw holes in the rotor.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st18.jpg
Inserted the main threaded rod and put the socket wrench on.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st19.jpg
Turned the wrench for a little, and presto, it came right off. Not much force needed at all with this setup.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st20.jpg
And behind the rotor, my problem, a fried stator. Was glad to see it actually. Assumed, but couldn't confirm, that this was in fact my electrical problem until I saw the stator.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st21.jpg
Removed the 4 screws, snipped the wires outside the primary, pulled the the wires and rubber plug/stopper thing back through the wire hole, and pulled out the stator. One last pic of the culprit.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st22.jpg
Here is the old leaking seal.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st23.jpg
Drilled two small holes in the old seal.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st24.jpg
Decided to make a mini puller. Bought a small metal plate and drilled and tapped a bolt hole, and drilled 2 small holes. Here it is.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st25.jpg
Attached to the seal with the 2 sheet metal screws.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st26.jpg
Tightend the nut, and the seal pulled right out!.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st27.jpg
The shifter shaft with the seal removed.....
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st28.jpg
Cleaned around the shaft opening real careful like, and pushed the new Cometic seal on.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st29.jpg
Cleaned up the rest of the area and case, and put the washer and lock ring on the shift shaft.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st30.jpg
Put the new stator in. Had to push the wire assembly through the hole, and then pull the wire from the outside until the rubber seal came through and "set". The stator went right into position on the shaft, and I used new screws like the manual said. Used the small torque wrench, and tightened her down to 70 inch pounds.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st31.jpg
Put the HB-125 tensioner back in.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st32.jpg
Adjusted the clutch and cleaned the gasket edge real good. Put the outer primary (chrome cover) over a new gasket, and torqued it down.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/st33.jpg
Put the chain inspection cover with a new gasket on and torqued it down. I am going to drain the primary, put new fluid in after a few miles and put the new gasket on.