The following is an explanation of a bar replacement (wild one chubby bars) on an ultra with internal wiring and pics. It is only intended to give you an idea of how its done and a service manual should be present for any additional info.


Battery disconnected, towels over the tank and front fender; it's time to start.
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This seems simple enough. There are several screws that hold the bat wing and windshield on.
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The final two screws that hold the bat wing on are hidden, but completely accessible by turning the steering to the lock in each direction to expose each screw.
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In about 15 minutes, the bat wing had been disconnected, exposing the radio, instruments, wiring, etc. Disconnect the headlight via the plug and carefully remove the bat wing. I wasn't looking forward to removing the radio to access the handlebar clamp bolts.
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The console needs to be removed to access the handlebars. To do that, the key/locking knob needs to be removed. The shop manual said to push a release button on the underside and then depress and turn the key counterclockwise. Where they say "key", they really mean to turn the key. (not the entire switch knob). Then, it became easy. Push up on the little hidden button with a small screwdriver, insert your key in the hole, push the key down and turn the key counterclockwise 60 degrees . It'll release the entire switch handle from the shaft.

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Here's how the switch knob comes out. With that little hidden button depressed, the key is pushed down and turned 60 degrees counterclockwise which allows the whole switch handle to be removed. In this picture, you can see how the key is upside down in the keyhole, turned beyond the 'UNLOCK' position.
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Only two screws hold the console in place; one on each end. The bundle of wires terminates into a connector under the radio, which is easily disconnected from the wiring harness. The console can be completely removed and set out of the way.
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Now it's time to remove the handlebar controls. I clipped the plastic ties.
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The left hand controls are the easy ones to remove. There's no throttle or hydraulic brake with which to contend. Simply remove the four fasteners and carefully swing the controls out of the way. With the cable end disconnected from the wiring harness, the whole assembly can be removed.
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The right-hand controls are a bit more difficult with the hydraulic brake and throttle combined. Be sure to put a shim behind the brake lever stop before taking the assembly apart. It'll save you from the possibility of damaging the brake light switch. You can use anything that'll hold the brake lever back about 1/8". Then, I took the four Torx-head screws out to free the assembly from the bars.
To remove the throttle grip, I first adjusted one of the throttle cable adjusters all the way IN to allow slack in the throttle and return cables. Then, one can slip the cables out of the little tracks in the grip and remove the ferules that are on the ends of the cables. Don't drop those little brass ferules. . . they can bounce quicker than the eye can follow.
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Every other description of removal of the handlebars on an Electra Glide included removal of the radio to access the clamp bolts. I decided to simply remove the risers from the triple clamp.
Visualize only two bolts (one for each riser) that are accessible from under the top triple clamp, using an 11/16" socket. Remove the two bolts to release and the entire handlebar and riser assembly slipped right out. There's a ground wire and some washers that come off with the risers.
This picture shows that I took the bar assembly out with the key-lock block still in place. I should have removed the lock block first. I did remove it for reassembly.
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Wild1's recommends using a solid one-piece top clamp with their handlebars. It was reported that such a solid clamp would not fit in an Electra Glide because of lack of clearance to the bottom of the radio.. Notice how the top portion of the clamp is rounded and the bolt holes are recessed. This is necessary to clear the bottom of the radio when installed. Stock clamps had to be used here.
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This is what the bike looks like with the bars and risers removed. Also visible under the radio display screen is the ground wire for the handlebars.
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Time to take the connector off the wiring harness. I want my control wiring hidden inside the bars as Wild1's intended. These connectors are the good ones. They're easy to disassemble and reassemble. (not like the turn signal connectors which can be real bears).
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The connector pins are easily removed. Pop out the little orange retainer using s small screw driver and depress the plastic tang away from the pin and pull the wire out. Here the screwdriver blade is under the tang on the lower/right-hand pin. I made a simple drawing to ensure that the wires go back in the holes from which they came.Mark one of the four corners to make sure the connector is oriented properly when inserting the pins back into their respective holes.
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CONTINUED BELOW

Here it is, completely disassembled and ready to thread through the left-hand handlebar.
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A single, full clamp (as the warning lable requires) won't fit so I had to use the stock clamps. The full clamp would have interfered with the bottom of the radio. Even with the separate stock clamps, there was only about 1/8" clearance. With the bar and riser assembly off the bike, it was easy to disassemble and reassemble.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s45/bills985/uc13.jpg


When I took the bars apart, I discovered that the front bolts were torqued tightly which mated the forward upper to the lower clamp pieces. The rear clamp bolts were tight, but the clamp surfaces weren't mated to each other. There was a slight gap. It would have been impossible to tighten the front bolts once the risers were installed under the radio; so I applied Blue Loctite and tightened them while clamped in the vise. With the rear bolts out, it allowed the bars to be positioned easily. To align the two-piece clamps to each other before attempting installation onto the triple clamp, I installed and snugged-up the front clamp bolts. Then, I put them in my vise in order to get them pointed in exactly the same rotation around the bars. I measured between the holes in the bottoms of the two risers and separated the clamps to match the separation of the holes in the triple tree clamps. Then, I used Blue Loctite and torqued the front clamp bolts. I installed the rear bolts, but only slightly snugged them. The bar and clamps assembly should bolt right in now with no problems. After the bars are adjusted, I can Loctite and torque the rear bolts.
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The factory hand control wiring cables do not need to be extended; but the wiring must be re-routed behind the dash. That meant relocating the electrical cable connectors. Here, I'm removing the left-hand cable connector from it's mount in order to relocate . Under the ball of my thumb (lower left corner of the frame), you can see the naked cable connector pins on the end of the hand control cable. That's as close as I could get them to the original connector location.
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This is all for the left-hand controls. Here, you can see where the connector was originally mounted (I'm pointing to the old location with the pen). the new location is adjacent to the back of the radio, circled in red. Also note that about half the handlebar wiring connector pins have been installed into the mating connector below. I thought this would be a good time for a picture.
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Stringing the wiring through the bars is easy, taking only a few minutes. I used a spring hook to gently grab and pull each wire through the center hole. Then, it was simply a matter of simultaneously pushing and pulling on each of the cables until they were in the right positions. No lubricant was required.
Also, notice the ground wire lug installed under the left-hand riser and the compensating washer under the right-hand riser.
I just noticed that the slight clearance between the riser clamp and the bottom of the radio is pictured here. It's 1/8" or less.
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Here, I'm pointing to the position of the right-hand control connector. It also had to be moved from the secured position up near the right-hand speaker. You can also see the left-hand controls cable connector (light gray, adjacent to the radio).
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The factory stock brake line is just barely long enough if carefully formed. It was possible to ensure that there were no stresses on the cable and that the tubing didn't rub against anything.
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Those are the two little ferules that slip onto the ends of the throttle and idle cables. When the twist grip is installed, the cable ends with the ferules slip into their respective grooves and the ferules into their little holes. You can see the little holes at the 12 o'clock position of the end of the twist grip. It's harder to see the grooves in the picture, but they travel around the grip, centered on the ferule holes.
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The factory stock clutch cable isn't nearly long enough to remain in the original routing through the back of the instrument panel. Instead, it must be re-routed exterior to the instrument dash.
Notice the very small amount of clearance between the riser clamp and the bottom of the radio? A standard one-piece top clamp would have interfered with the radio. The stock clamps have rounded tops and recessed bolts to give the needed clearance.
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Removing the grip, It's the easy way to remove a glued-on grip without cutting it to pieces. Simply put the nozzle of a compressed air chuck under the end of the grip and blow. The rubber grip will expand like a balloon and release from the glue and bar. While the air is ON and the grip puffed up, you can easily slide the grip off the bar.
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See, it slides right off, ready to be re-used on the new bars.
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Installation of the switch block was very easy. Only two bolts with a little blue loctite, connect the power connector under the radio, and it's done. (The other exposed connector is for the console wiring).
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Before installing the bat wing, all wiring, connectors, gauge wiring and lighting, etc were checked and double checked. I also checked all controls whie swinging the steering from lock to lock to ensure that there would be no undue stresses or pinching anywhere. Also ensured that any wiring or connectors were secured to prevent vibration and chaffing against other parts which might cause failure. Satisfied with the work, I installed the bat wing and windshield, battery cables and seat. It's time to go ride.


ALSO see this post

Ultra Bar Replacement - Harley Davidson Community (http://www.hdtalking.com/chassis_suspension_brakes_and_front_end/1129-ultra_bar_replacement.html)

Great write up,Glider. You make the work less mysterious for us!!!!

i'm thinking about replacing my stock bars with the reduced reach rk bars (i would include a link to the bars, but since my post count is less than five, i can't!!! :nosad). did you have any problems with the cruise control?? i'm a little concerned with tripping/resetting the cruise control module... should i be??

Shouldn't be a problem, you may need to do the cable initialization again if you remove/change the cables.

Cruise Control Initialization - Harley Davidson Community (http://www.hdtalking.com/diagnostics_alarms_security_and_fuel_injection_rel ated/747-cruise_control_initialization.html)